On Sun, Jun 19, 2022 at 5:28 PM Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > I believe I often prefer a little more brightness
> > and "out in the sun" feeling to the light than you.
>
> May just be some difference in monitor brightness.
>
Probably not, but always a possibility. As I age, I attribute more
vagaries to people's eyeballs.
> Some highlights that go off the grid are often OK to me.
>
> It's subtler than that:
>
> On 6/19/2022 11:19 AM, DZDub wrote:
> > http://zone-10.com/tope2/main.php?g2_itemId=23805
> >
> > Does anyone know if this is a katydid?
>
> Notice how some bright areas lack any detail/texture at all? That just
> looks wrong to my eyes.
>
Let's not use this flower -- it is such an ugly flower that it wouldn't be
worth it for me to try to improve it. I did desaturate the densest
yellow. Doesn't make it look good, but it was even worse.
> Perhaps this example will explain. <
> http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/tech/Process/Yellow%20Flowers/YellowHighs.htm
> >
>
> See all the textural detail and the red stripes in the -2.0 EV frame? I
> can bring that up to be as bright or brighter
> than the - 2/3 frame - and retain greater texture, etc.
>
> This may not matter to others, but to me, it's key to coming closer to
> capturing the experience of seeing the flowers in
> person. and why I think -2 EV is a starting point for yellow (and bright
> red) flowers in the sun.
>
I'm not saying it doesn't matter to me, but I am not really interested or
concerned about flowers with this shade and density of yellow. I see
differences but can't always generate enthusiasm for one over another. I
am interested in your claim that your hypothesis applies to red as well.
Do you have a similar example of red?
>
> Why is it like this? My theory is that it's due to the leveling off of the
> top of the response curve of the
> camera/firmware. That lowers contrast in highlights, making small
> differences in brightness disappear. In the vast
> majority of shots, it just doesn't matter, and the curve helps hold
> highlights from blocking up.
>
> With really big areas of subtly tonally differentiated yellow/red, that
> subtlety fades away. By exposing much less, the
> flower is down in a steeper area of the curve with more contrast.
>
> I've tried the alternative, pulling down highlights, fussing with their
> contrast, etc. but just haven't liked the
> results as well, as yet.
>
To get the results you desire, do you need to shoot the subject at -2 EV,
or can you dial back the ORF exp comp in OM Workplace to get the same
effective starting-point?
I always have AF on the shutter button as default. I never shoot in A, S or
> P Dial setting. I'm an "A" guy, so my
> settings for C1-C4 are all A. the problem with the "A" setting itself is
> that whatever I might change then shows up next
> time I power up. With the Cx settings, I know exactly what I have, each
> time.
>
I will experiment, but I'm not sure we're discussing quite the same thing.
This iris has plenty of detail:
http://zone-10.com/tope2/main.php?g2_itemId=23812
To me the Mean Mr. Mustard color gives the impression that the petal is
thicker and more opaque than it is.
This iris seems a little better to me at suggesting translucence that is
natural to irises:
http://zone-10.com/tope2/main.php?g2_itemId=23814
I should also ask you what picture mode you use for starters. I'm assuming
it's "Natural", not that it matters so much in raw. The level of
saturation I am seeing with the EM-1iii in Natural picture mode is
somewhere between natural and vivid on the E-5.
EM-1iii might be the first camera I have ever shot in P mode. I also
always have AF on the shutter but focus on the AEL button (or Fn depending
on the camera) and my C2 with A mode is set up that way. I had a brain fut
if I wrote otherwise. I came to enjoy focus on the shutter with longer
lenses and fast subjects. Continuous too -- I don't usually need those to
be too fast. Set that way I found it easier to get this kind of shot (this
with E-620):
http://zone-10.com/towhichpe2/main.php?g2_itemId=23816
<http://zone-10.com/tope2/main.php?g2_itemId=23816>
Currently my P mode is set up that way. At the moment the Cx stops are
working great for me. With that being the case, I don't know why I would
ever use A, P, or M on the dial stops. In my limited time with the camera I
haven't discovered why they set it up that way. I'll figure it out sooner
or later. In general, I thought the E-5 was nicely organized, but this is
good too. The bigger adjustment for me is the hair-trigger readiness of
all things mirrorless other than getting the camera on and off or out of
sleep. And it is hard to get used to not having an optical path without
the camera being turned on. When I get really used to all those things, it
will be hard to pick up a DSLR again because mirrorless is better. The
afterlife of the C8080.
Joel (always fashionably late) W.
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