You may also find corrosion in the wire leading off the battery
compartment. I once had a Konica C35 with a pristine battery
compartment but with the wire leading out to the meter so corroded
inside the insulation that the wire fell apart at the solder connection
when I touched it.
Chuck Norcutt
Jeff Keller wrote:
> People have reported that loose screws on the bottom plate can cause
> intermittant problems. If it is black, John recommends using silver
> battery caps. Check out the battery compartment for corrosion or a
> bent spring. It really sounds like a poor connection somewhere.
> Good luck,
> -jeff
>
> On 11/15/06, Manuel Viet <oly@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>>Hello,
>>
>>I have a 2n that I don't use much (I prefer the 1md), and moreover it has the
>>bad habit of locking up from time to time, needing a reset and a blank
>>winding to save the unexposed frame (I'd say... once in 50 shot, but sometime
>>3 time in a row, and sometime after 100 blank shoot). Of course, this is a
>>vicious circle, because I don't really appreciate it to fail on me, so I tend
>>not to use it a lot because of that too, keeping it strictly as a rear cap
>>and ultimate backup.
>>
>>What bothers me is that the led lights a beautiful steady red when asked,
>>hence my question : what fails first, the batteries or the test ? My
>>voltmeter says those epx76 are 1.56 V each, alone, outside the body. To my
>>little knowledge, it doesn't sound too bad...
>>
>>I noticed the symptom is aggravated if I use the 2n on manual, and especially
>>in manual at high speeds (1/500 ~ 1/1000). Is it carateristic of a failure of
>>something else (the body was bought as BER in a shop for parts, but I thought
>>I was lucky when it reseted all right on those batteries) ?
>>
>>--
>>Manuel Viet
>
>
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