>
> 1) AFAIK, the spot metering area should coincide with the microprism area.
In my camera it appears to be higher by about half a diameter of the circle
(checked by metering a circular light source).
According to Olympus' service manual (pg. D-33), you should check the spot
meter by making a hole approx. 10mm in diameter in a black piece of paper,
which is then suspended over a light source of BV12~15. With a 50mm lens
attached and the body on a tripod, move the camera and focus the lens until
the opening appears to be half the size of the split image circle on a
standard (1-13) screen. Press the "SPOT" button and carefully move the lens
until the reading is at centered at it's maximum. So long as this reading
is within the split image circle, it's within tolerance.
If it is too high or low, you can adjust the stop for the sub-mirror either
forward or backward very slightly by bending. Hold the shutter open on "B"
and looking into the front of the camera with the lens removed, you'll see a
small tab on the left side of the mirror box near the film plane about half
way up -- that is the stop for the sub-mirror.
The information regarding horizontal errors is very vague. All I can
suggest is that that is something left to a technician capable of removing
the front casting in the event that the sub-mirror is disloged from it's
pivots.
>
> 2) After I make a spot measurement, the tiny diamond(s) sometimes move
just by themselves, without me changing anything. This happens more often
for some ASA settings.
This is not unusual, and the presence and degree of fluctuation will vary
depending on the particular circuit version -- later main circuits were not
as suceptable to jumpy bars/diamonds as earlier ones, but they can occur,
especially when the light values are near the cusp of transition. Also, be
aware that the meter can be sensitive to pulses in fluroescent light
sources -- best to check under incandescent lights.
>
> 3) This one is a bit complicated. When I make one or more spot
measurements (in AUTO), each is represented by a tiny diamond, and the
shutter speed is represented by a bar. If i decide to use exposure
compensation, the bar should move, and the diamonds should stay where they
were, right ? In my camera, for some ASA settings, turning the compensation
dial by 1/3 EV moves the diamonds... shutter speed does not change. Similar
thing happens in MANUAL mode.
>
Could be a coincidence, or the movement of the Compensation dial may be
moving either the ISO input or the board itself slightly. Could be
something's loose inside, or the board/brushes may need cleaning. Olympus
modified the brushes on the VR's there, too -- perhaps this was why. And
sometimes moving the Compensation dial will move the ISO, too -- check and
be sure this isn't happening as well.
> The question is: is it all normal ? Or at least "within factory
tolerances" ? And if it is not, can it be fixed/can it be expected to be
fixed during an overhaul ? All the faults were pointed out when I sent the
camera to the repair shop...
>
Don't know if I'd worry or not -- only you can say if it's worth sending it
back for a re-work.
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