Hi David - welcome to the list.
You sure picked a biggie for your first post! This question seems to come up
quite a lot, and there are as many answers as OM bodies! The important thing is
to be clear on what you expect from your second body which is different from
the OM2sp. You say being stuck with spot metering only in manual is not ideal
for you. If you don't want it at all, an OM2n will be just as good (and at
least as robust). If you want it sometimes, or in auto, then you have to go OM4
but in either case you lose program mode (do you use this at all).
Alternatively, you could look at an OM40 (OMPC), which has the ESP function of
two - zone metering, and the same functions as the 2sp. Opinions vary about
long term reliability, but they're cheap(er). If you use the camera mainly in
manual, then it's OM1(n) / OM3 as possibilities.
One point about a second OM2sp. These all look the same (no black / chrome
option), and when you're in a hurry... A different model body would make it
easier to tell which is which quickly
If you use the right batteries (original 357s SR44s ONLY) you shouldn't have
worse drain issues with any of them than you have with the OM2SP.
You also will need to be clear and disciplined about what you are prepared to
spend. The prices (retail with guarantee) in this discussion have a range of
about GBP100 for a reasonable OM40 body through 120 - 140 for an OM1, 160 - 200
for an OM2n 175 - 250 for an OM2sp. A decent OM4 will cost upwards of 250. An
OM3 (if you can find one) would be 400+ easily All I've seen in the UK in the
last couple of years is a really ropy one in Jssops at 500 and two LNIB at 600+
. OM4Ti around 500. OM3Ti - forget it, the collectors are in there big time, so
you probably wouldn't want to use it if you found one!
If price is important, Cash converters had a pile of very good OM10s a little
while ago. There seemed to be one in every store I went into. All VGC and
priced around 60 with case, strap and 50/1.8. Worth a look!
Then there are other options: with recent gains in film quality, load fast
film and take a neutral density filter or two along with you?
Of course, however, Jamie is correct. You need them all.
At least one of each.
In each finish
Then you will need a 250 exposure back.
Because Olympus made one
I can stop.... I can stop....
Julian
Cambs, UK
The above statements are inaccurate (at best)
----- Original Message -----
From: David Sharp
To: olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 10:14 PM
Subject: [OM] Which OM body?
Hello,
I'm new to the list. I came across this list on the internet, looking got
info on things Olympus - I've owned an OM2-SP for several years now. Its a
great camera.
I'd like some advice... I want to buy a second OM body, so I can run two
different speed films at once. I'm doing an increasing amount of photography of
ancient monuments / archaeological sites / archaeological artefacts (I'm an
archaeology student), and find myself one minute in broad daylight and the next
minute in the corner of a dark trench..and having to take accurate exposures
quickly).
I've been very happy with the OM2-SP (apart from the fact that you can only
use Spot metering in Manual mode...but I can cope with that).
I could just buy another OM2SP body. But I'd like to hear people's opinions
on other OM bodies. Are there any people who can compare their experiences of
the OM2SP with, for instance, the OM2n and OM4? Or, perhaps there are people
who work in similar fields who still insist on using a manual OM1/OM3? Are some
OM bodies more reliable than others? Is the metering more accurate on
particular models? Are some tougher than others? Are some easier to use? Do the
batteries run out quickly on some? Is the OM2000 really a piece of rubbish? If
I don't need 'shadow/highlight' should I get another OM2SP rather than an OM4,
or does the OM4 have some extra advantages?
many thanks for any replies
--
David Sharp, London, UK.
david.sharp@xxxxxxxxxxx
Tel: (+44) (0)208 291 0978
Mobile: 07811 407 635
|