At 03:08 AM 5/13/1998 -0400, Stephen Chung wrote:
snip!
>b) Take advantage of any VIP discounts on slide film and processing that
>the lab is offering. I'm considering buying a bulk roll (30M) of Konica
>Chrome R-100 which my lab is selling at a discount price $44.00. At
>that price I'm willing to give it a try.
>
Make friends with a lab that's willing to deal with gonzo lengths of film
in cases where you've forgotten how many times you wound the bulk loader!
I've only worked with bulk loading BW film I was planning to process
myself. A lot of that got scratched from using suspect, reusable
cartridges. Probably not good for a guy who wants every frame on the roll
to be a winner, to wit:
>c) Use a camera that has an accurate exposure meter e.g OTF.
>I used my OM4 over my OM1n because I find that the OM4 gives consistent
>and accurate exposures compared to the OM1n. My first roll was Sensia
>II 100 on the OM4 shooting at the Melbourne Zoo on a generally overcast
>day, and methinks all of them are in the properly exposed ball park. If
>there are OM1 guys out there who can get 36/36 good slide exposures in
>difficult and variable light conditions - I salute you.
Don't mind being saluted, thanks. My percentages are the same with OM-1 or
OM-2SP. With slide film I shoot half-stop brackets. The "normal" one is
usually right on the money. In landscapes, I don't meter on the sky unless
it is very blue. Greens are usually Zone V. Amazing the tricks you learn.
I suspect my approach would be the same with an OM4. My brother has a
Minolta wundercube that can out-matrix an OM-4 a bunch. He usually shoots 5
to 7 half-stop brackets, and doubles, too! Unless you shoot at home or in
the back yard, the film is really the cheap thing in a photo opportunity.
>
>d) Specify "Develop only" when submitting your film for processing and
>mount the slides yourself - I believe that there are slide mounting kits
>you can buy, but unless you are mounting heaps of slides, I reckon a
>pair of sharp, round ended scissors and a box of VIP discount plastic
>slide mounts are all that you need.
>
I also did this once. If you enjoy it, cool. If not, make sure your time is
worth less than your money. Mine no longer is.
snip!
>
>f) Use your zuiko 50 f1.8 for a handy loupe,
snip!
>
Nifty idea. Beats my Agfa 8X.
snip!
>
>k) Forget having your Cibachromes done professionally and join the queue
>for your local "How to amuse yourself in the Dark Room" course - try to
>find one which offers a bonus Zuiko 50 f1.8 on enrollment.
>
Or go the film scanner, Photoshop, Epson (or _______) inkjet route. My
Coolscan II struggles with the dynamic range of slides, but I do the best I
can and now shoot somewhat more negative film than ever before. My local
Walmart will process a 24 exp. roll + one set of 3x5 prints for $2.67 USD!
They don't put the negs in fancy sleeves but they also don't seem to
scratch them any worse than any other lab I've used, including Kodak or
Fuji. Because of the scanner I don't regard the Walmart prints as anything
more than proofs. The results I get compared to "photolab" prints, or even
the darkroom stuff I used to do, is extremely gratifying. (Not exactly
cheap at the front end though with the price of scanner, Photoshop, etc.)
I don't shoot brackets with negative film, but I do shoot doubles in hopes
that one shot may be scratched less than the other! Scanners find dust and
scratches quicker than wet on spit.
Anyway, thanks for the post, Stephen. Keep up the quest.
Joel
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