> So AG I think is essentially saying to try and get the ambient 2 or 3
> stops down so background doesn't get too dark and drag the shutter to
> do so.
Dragging the shutter in this case is still limiting the shutter time
to ONLY 1/60. When you do the metering, you may need to have the flash
disconnected or turned off to prevent the camera from locking it down
to 1/60. (I think it indicates 1/60, while still floating a dot, but I
don't have my flash here with me today to verify that.
Since the focal-plane shutter of the OM series of electronic-shutter
cameras forces the shutter speed to exactly 1/60 (except for the
original OM-2, which does float), your control of the background
exposure is only adjustable with aperture and film speed.
So, saying the above another way...
1. Place the camera in auto mode.
2. Disconnect the flash or leave the flash turned off.
3. Look through the viewfinder at the scene.
4. Tap the shutter-release to wake up the meter.
5. Adjust aperture to achieve a suggested shutter speed of around 1/15
give or take one stop..
6. If you can't get the shutter speed between 1/8 and 1/30, you will
need to change film or lens. Repeat step 5 until you have the
indicated shutter speed within this range.
7. Attach flash and turn it back on in TTL-Auto mode.
8. With the flash on and controlled by the camera, when the
flash-ready light comes on, the camera will automatically lock the
shutter speed to 1/60.
9. Because the "proper" ambient exposure should have been around 1/15,
this will underexpose the background some. In normal circumstances
where you are shooting indoors, you'll pick up at least one stop from
the flash itself. Meanwhile, your subject will be properly exposed.
..
> HE of course can drag the shutter with the 3T AND use TTL metering.
> (jealous use of capitalizaiton ;-) ) I was always worried that hand
> holding with longer lenses even if the flash is the dominant light
> might lead to ghosting, but it does seem to work most of time.
Ahem, that's the OM-3Ti, not the 3T. ;) Being able to drag the
shutter a bit is a good thing. It doesn't help you any with shutter
speeds faster than 1/60, but it does give you the ability to bring the
ambient up above the midtone.
The OM-system fires the flash on the first-curtain. Therefore, what
will happen is that the flash exposure of the subject is determined at
the beginning of the exposure, while the dragged shutter continues on
after that point. A case in point--let's say I'm shooting a subject in
front of a scene where I want the background to be two stops brighter
than midtone. For this example, let's say that a "proper expsoure" of
this background is F8 at 1/60. Since I want it to be two stops
brighter than midtone, my exposure has to be F8 at 1/15. The subject
I'm photographing will be exposed by the flash (and quenched by the
OTF-TTL) at the beginning of the exposure. In a normal OM body, the
shutter then closes at the end of the 1/60. But with the OM-3Ti, I can
keep the shutter open longer to bring up the background.
But you can do that with the OM-4T, right? Uh, no. Not with OTF-TTL.
You can with in-flash auto, but not OTF-TTL. If the flash is doing its
own auto, you can put the camera in manual exposure mode, do whatever
you want for the background and let the flash take care of the
subject. I do this all the time with the digital cameras.
AG Flash
--
Ken Norton
ken@xxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.zone-10.com
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