Thanks for the samples and long explanations. Your method does not eliminate
all the color fringe on the watch, there are still color fringe on the edges
of all white characters. I know you can widen the color range to cover more
area.
I know about color selection tool and I avoid using it, it could selected
some unwanted color if you are not careful. Desaturate the purple color is
not an ideal way as the "inflected area" are not always just grey, black or
white.
If I'm going to spend all these time to make a touch up I will just use
brush to paint color. Sample the neighbor area color and paint on the
affected area, I have 100% control on what is to be done. You know the color
is right or not and you can even make more adjsutment (lightness,
coning...etc) if necessary.
C.H.Ling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Moose" <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 12:56 PM
Subject: [OM] Re: A couple of Velvia 50 birds
> C.H.Ling wrote:
>> I think CA correction has been discussed before, may be I should have
>> used purple fringe instead, I haven't seen any software that can correct
>> them.
>>
> Winsor posted a good, simple solution a year and a half ago. Here it is
> with my commentary from further use/experience:
>
> "Make a hue/saturation adjustment layer.
>
> In the hue/saturation tool use the drop down menu to select blue or
> magenta. Click on the color fringe to select its color"
>
> - Once you have chosen a color, you can widen the color selection with the
> sliders that appear near the bottom.
>
> "Reduce the saturation with the slider so it is less intense. Then reduce
> the lightness with the third slider by an equal amount."
>
> - I do the lightening by eye, not slider setting.
>
> "Keep an eye on the sky so you do not over do it."
>
> - Dr. Mask told me not to worry about this. He says to get the area of
> concern right, then use the mask that come with the layer to paint areas
> in or out of the anti-fringe effect.
>
> "If the fringe has a wide color range you might have to do it again on the
> part that was not changed. This fringe had a strong magenta edge as well."
>
> - This is where the sliders at the bottom make things easier, so you don't
> need to do it more than once. With Saturation and Lightness adjusted, you
> may adjust the sliders and watch their effect in preview. Makes it easier
> to set the color range and feathering range. They may also be readjusted
> later.
>
> "Helps to look at it at 200 percent while doing it. Easy and quick and
> will catch a whole bunch of bare branches against a bright sky. This gets
> it for me 90 percent of the time without ever having to make a selection."
>
> -----------------------------------------------
>> Here are two more samples (last time I posted the Tamron 180/2.5 sample):
>>
>> - Tamron 70-300 Di LD Macro which Larry just posted some nice flower
>> images, the lens is sharp from 70-200 if not for the purple fringe it
>> would be great lens:
>>
>> http://www.accura.com.hk/temp/IMG_2081.JPG (at 180mm F5.6)
>>
> Here, I applied Winsor's method, reversed the mask to black then painted
> in the correction using white. Since the rest of the image is almost
> monotone, I took the Saturation slider almost all the way down. That
> worked within the 50 minute marker, but left a neutral colored flare
> into the black above it. I cloned that out.
> <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/tech/Process/PurpleFringe/Watch.htm>
>> - The problem is not limited to low cost zoom, the DZ8mm also suffered
>> from
>> this problem:
>>
>> http://www.accura.com.hk/temp/P2112293.jpg (F3.5 1/5s handheld)
>>
> Here, I applied Winsor's method to the whole image, then painted a
> little back in. I removed the effect from the Soloman sign, as it became
> too dark. It also looks to me like there are neon strips on the top of
> the central and right buildings and the awning to the right of the
> Soloman sign. The fringe correction almost eliminated them, so I painted
> them back in.
> <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/tech/Process/PurpleFringe/BlueLight.htm>
>
> I also applied his technique to the image you posted that, as I recall,
> elicited his post.
> <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/tech/Process/PurpleFringe/Toyota.htm>
>
> It's not perfect, but amazingly good, relatively simple - and free (at
> least for those with PS or equivalent functionality).
>
> Moose
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