I am flattered by the credit even though you have made it a "moosier"
tool, in the good sense.
Winsor
Long Beach, California, USA
On June 10, 2008, at 9:56 PM, Moose wrote:
> C.H.Ling wrote:
>> I think CA correction has been discussed before, may be I should
>> have used purple fringe instead, I haven't seen any software that
>> can correct them.
>>
> Winsor posted a good, simple solution a year and a half ago. Here it
> is
> with my commentary from further use/experience:
>
> "Make a hue/saturation adjustment layer.
>
> In the hue/saturation tool use the drop down menu to select blue or
> magenta. Click on the color fringe to select its color"
>
> - Once you have chosen a color, you can widen the color selection
> with the sliders that appear near the bottom.
>
> "Reduce the saturation with the slider so it is less intense. Then
> reduce the lightness with the third slider by an equal amount."
>
> - I do the lightening by eye, not slider setting.
>
> "Keep an eye on the sky so you do not over do it."
>
> - Dr. Mask told me not to worry about this. He says to get the area
> of concern right, then use the mask that come with the layer to
> paint areas in or out of the anti-fringe effect.
>
> "If the fringe has a wide color range you might have to do it again
> on the part that was not changed. This fringe had a strong magenta
> edge as well."
>
> - This is where the sliders at the bottom make things easier, so you
> don't need to do it more than once. With Saturation and Lightness
> adjusted, you may adjust the sliders and watch their effect in
> preview. Makes it easier to set the color range and feathering
> range. They may also be readjusted later.
>
> "Helps to look at it at 200 percent while doing it. Easy and quick
> and will catch a whole bunch of bare branches against a bright sky.
> This gets it for me 90 percent of the time without ever having to
> make a selection."
>
> -----------------------------------------------
>> Here are two more samples (last time I posted the Tamron 180/2.5
>> sample):
>>
>> - Tamron 70-300 Di LD Macro which Larry just posted some nice
>> flower images, the lens is sharp from 70-200 if not for the purple
>> fringe it would be great lens:
>>
>> http://www.accura.com.hk/temp/IMG_2081.JPG (at 180mm F5.6)
>>
> Here, I applied Winsor's method, reversed the mask to black then
> painted
> in the correction using white. Since the rest of the image is almost
> monotone, I took the Saturation slider almost all the way down. That
> worked within the 50 minute marker, but left a neutral colored flare
> into the black above it. I cloned that out.
> <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/tech/Process/PurpleFringe/Watch.htm
> >
>> - The problem is not limited to low cost zoom, the DZ8mm also
>> suffered from
>> this problem:
>>
>> http://www.accura.com.hk/temp/P2112293.jpg (F3.5 1/5s handheld)
>>
> Here, I applied Winsor's method to the whole image, then painted a
> little back in. I removed the effect from the Soloman sign, as it
> became
> too dark. It also looks to me like there are neon strips on the top of
> the central and right buildings and the awning to the right of the
> Soloman sign. The fringe correction almost eliminated them, so I
> painted
> them back in.
> <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/tech/Process/PurpleFringe/BlueLight.htm
> >
>
> I also applied his technique to the image you posted that, as I
> recall,
> elicited his post.
> <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/tech/Process/PurpleFringe/Toyota.htm
> >
>
> It's not perfect, but amazingly good, relatively simple - and free (at
> least for those with PS or equivalent functionality).
>
> Moose
>
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