----- Original Message -----
From: "Moose" <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx>
> Perhaps I was too clever, trying to show two methods of painting the
> effect. On the watch I did not apply the change to the whole image I
> posted. I've changed it now to show the whole face, with correction
> applied to the whole image.
> <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/tech/Process/PurpleFringe/Watch.htm>
Thanks. Actually, I have tried using your procedure, it works very well with
the watch by extending the color range.
>> I know about color selection tool and I avoid using it, it could selected
>> some unwanted color if you are not careful.
>>
> I know what you mean about the Select=>Color Range tool. It can be
> tricky. This is a different tool that works differently. It is sliders
> in the Hue/Saturation Tool and only extends or restricts the color range
> and the color feathering range . It cannot select colors outside a
> continuous range.
The selection seems cover the whole image, if there are other area with
similar color but no due to lens defect will it be affected too?
>> Desaturate the purple color is not an ideal way as the "inflected area"
>> are not always just grey, black or
>> white.
>>
> I agree, but it works well for this image. With another, the Hue slider
> could be used to get the color in the right range, at least. I haven't
> used it enough to know if that will work for most images.
Thanks for the hints again, just tried with the taxi image and it works
well.
>> If I'm going to spend all these time
> The one I just posted took less than a minute to do, with no individual
> area touch-up at all. It may not be quite a 100% solution, but it is
> quick and easy.
Agreed
>> to make a touch up I will just use brush to paint color. Sample the
>> neighbor area color and paint on the
>> affected area, I have 100% control on what is to be done. You know the
>> color is right or not and you can even make more adjustment (lightness,
>> coning...etc) if necessary.
>>
> That's the way for a very large, exhibition print. This technique seems
> to me to be good for most other uses.
>
And it does not take a long time either, I'm doing it a lots for the faded
negatives since many of them has both sides (top and bottom) faded and the
center is ok. With not very precise work, it takes around 3-5 minutes each.
But for exhibition print I can imagine the processing time will be much
longer.
C.H.Ling
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