Yes, T-10 has a ring in the middle that you can use either
a spanner wrench, or as I use, a modified dentist tweezers.
Then use two fingers in the middle section to twist it off.
Uses 8 small peanut bulbs that can be replaced with
8 x 3mm white leds that will require individual resisters
to be wired in for proper current sharing, I use surface
mount. You could take a suckitnsee and hook them all
uptogether and hope the wiring resistance will help
with current distribution so all the LED light evenly
but murphy tells me the chances are slim.
R = (Vs-Vled) / Iled
Where
R = Resistance
Vs = Voltage Source
Vled = Voltage drop of LED
Iled = Current draw of LED
White LED's normally have a voltage drop of about 3.2v
and you do not want more than 30ma through each individual LED.
Do not even contemplate the high power LED's, they require heatsinking !
To actually get to the Peanut bulbs though, you want to make sure
you know what your doing, you have the cirular flash to take out,
and then you need to undo small screws in the metal brackets that
hold the silcon holders for the flash tube itself. This will allow you
access to the small curcular PCB between the back of the unit, and
the flash reflector so you can unsolder bulb leads, and solder in
the LED's making sure you have them alighed so they fit the
spacing in the reflector. If you are deb enough with surface
soldering, you can use surface mount resistors on the PCB.
If you break the flash tube, dont look at me, I dont recommend
anyone do this unless you are use to force and feedback
mechanisms :-)
Cheers
Ian Manners
On Tue, 20 Mar 2007 01:42:20 -0700, Moose wrote:
> John Morton wrote:
> > Hmmm... well, I'm looking at one and I can see some sort of locking ring in
> > the center,
with two little notches opposite each other for some sort of device to fit into
in order to
unscrew it.... so I think that it might just come apart.
> >
> That's how the T8 comes apart, a locking ring that requires a spanner
> wrench.
>
> Moose
>
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Cheers
Ian Manners
http://www.comkal.net/
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