on 2/24/04 7:16 PM, Rob Harrison at robhar@xxxxxx wrote:
> My thoughts are to either...
> -get the 90mm for the Leica and just take that kit.
A 90 isn't that long for a Leica... the rangefinder baselength is OK with it
even with the .58 finder, though better with the .72 and .85 finders. The
90/2.0 Summicron is a larger lens than the close focal length Zuiko 85/2.0.
I think you will find many here who will praise that Zuiko for portraits,
its one of my favorite lenses. I don't have the 90/2.0 Zuiko (I wish I
did...) which is closer in size to the Summicron. In using my 90 Summicron
on my M's, even on the M3, the 90 frameline is pretty small compared with
the total viewfinder... this isn't an issue with the SLR, you see a nice
large image, IMO easier to compose on. I think the truly optimal focal
lengths for rangefinders run from about 28mm to 75mm, and, depending on how
you feel about using separate finders down below that (but how critical is
focus on a 12mm or 15mm lens...?)
> or...
> -forget about long lenses on the rangefinder, and carry the OM with the
> 75-150/4 I just got from Jim Couch for portraits, and use the MP for
> everything else... (and forget about TTL flash in both cases...)
Not to disparage the 75-150/4.0 Zuiko (it was one of my original Zuiko
purchases, and I have about 5 of them now...) but that lens isn't near as
sweet as the 85/2.0 for portraits. If you're not in dire need of
zoomability, I'd consider getting an 85/2.0 and a 135/3.5 as a good longer
lens pair for portraits and the travel kit. The Zuiko 135/2.8 is possibly a
better lens, but quite a bit bigger than the 3.5 for the extra half-stop of
speed. Also, it uses 55mm filters, where the 85/2.0 and 135/3.5 can share
49mm filters with your normal lens and any wideangles (expecting that you
don't get the fast wides...)
TTL flash can be accomodated starting with the OM-2 and if you get an OM-4
or OM-3 (plain or "Ti" version) you will get not only TTL flash, but also an
incredibly elegant and versatile multi-spot metering system... I don't think
Olympus's TTL flash matches the modern level of automated fill-flash and
radio-remote slave capability of some current wunderbrick SLR's, but its
very good at solving the problems of using flash for macro and 'normal'
flash use.
> or...
> -take the FG and FE2 with three lenses and SB-15
> or...
> -sell most of my Nikon gear (except the FG, which was my dad's), sell
> the Leica kit, and get an OM-4ti, F280 flash, 21/3.5, 24 shift, 35/2,
> 50/1.2 and 85/2 to compliment my 50/1/8 and 75-150 zoom, and for the
> trip to Australia, take the OM-1 and OM-4ti, F280, 21/3.5, 35/2, 50/1.2
> and 85/2, and quit thinking so much.
Well, if you have a Leica MP and 35/2.0 Summicron ASPH, I'd be inclined to
keep those... you can't get much more perfect at what they do that that
combo. But getting rid of the Nikon gear might yield enough cash anyway to
vastly upgrade your Olympus capabilities.
Getting a good OM-4 (ideally with the "Ti" circuit) will save about 1/3 over
going for the OM-4Ti. That's probably $250 difference. Unless you absolutely
intend to take -lots- of archetectural pictures the 24-Shift is probably
overkill. I've got one, and primarily because I want one of everything <g>.
But its not a 'everyday use' lens, really requiring a tripod to be used
well.
The 21/3.5 is a very sweet lens, and very small, which is good for a travel
kit. However 21 is -pretty- wide, you can get in trouble with it... a 24/2.8
will be 1/2 the cost and give you a very nice focal length useful for a lot
of situations. The 35/2.0 is a good lens, and of the 'fast wides' probably
the most affordable... but it uses 55mm filters. If you have the Leica and
35/2.0 Summicron they cover that situation much better <g>.
You could go for a 35/2.8 and save 1/2 of the cost, maybe more, if you want
to shoot 35mm focal length with the OM's.
The 50/1.2 is a -sweet- lens (I've got two...) but if you can find the
50/1.4 with high s/n it is probably as sharp from f2 up, and will cost 1/3
the price. I don't think you will notice the speed difference in normal use,
the extra half-stop helps focusing some, but only in the extreme.
The 85/2.0 I've already weighed in on... keep the 75-150/4.0 but consider
adding the 135/3.5 as well, it can often be found for well under $100.
So let's sum up...
Sell Nikon gear... here's what you need to clear
OM-4 with new circuit, clean one should be $350 or so.
F280 flash if you think you will do -a lot- of fill flash. Otherwise there
isn't that much to recommend it over the T-32, the cost is about the same
~$100, maybe a bit more for the F280. For a travel kit the T-20 is much
smaller and lighter, and can be had for $50 or less.
Clean 21/3.5 will run about $300, but its such a sweet lens you need to
consider it... a clean 24/2.8 could be found for $150 or less with some
'shopping'.
Skip the 24-Shift, get a 35/2.8 with care for under $100.
Get a nice 50/1.4 with serial number over 1-million, these can be found for
~$100 or maybe less if you get an 'unaware' seller. Of course the list
snipers will be all over it too, but you can find these at camera shows
sometimes. Its even arguable if the difference between the 50/1.2, 50/1.4
high s/n, and 50/1.8 MIJ is enough to make the cost spread logical. Many
incredible pictures have been taken with the lowly 50/1.8 MIJ... which can
be had for under $50.
Get the 85/2.0, once you have it you'll discover how wonderful it really is.
A very clean one can be found for $250 with some care shopping.
So I'm really running on here... $350 + $100 + $300 + $150 + $100 + $100 +
$250 adds up to (run and get calculator) $1350. You can easily take $400 or
so out of that with the lower-cost options... and not lose 1/10 of the
capability.
Of course, it won't end there, but then -- That's why we're here! <g>
>
> There, I've said it.
--
Jim Brokaw
OM-'s of all sorts, and no OM-oney...
I've said a whole lot more... wake up everybody!
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