On Mon, 14 Jun 1999, Terry Mair wrote:
> I have a question why would you want to shoot men with or with out hats at
> NOON?
> if it possible move into open shade and still use fill or balance flash.
I can understand that situations may arise where due to expediency
of a certain background such a shot would happen.
> > At the risk of sounding atavistic, I'll go one further and say that
> > using flash on manual (WARNING: Non-OM content !) beats any other
> > means of using a flash besides a test shot on a flashmeter,
>
> I hardly ever use my flashes on Manual, but I do meter them to find out just
> what the
> output is at a given distance range! I have never used dedicated flash so I
> cant
> speak for them, but I do know that thyristors are not 100% at all rainges,
> and do
> change there output at different distances.
Since the exposure is dependent on output and distance from your
subject, once you have figured out your real GN, the distance/manual
business works extremely well [though whenever possible/convenient, I
also pull out the flashmeter and take a reading]. The thyristor "problem"
has more to do with reflectivity variations and included ambient light
than anything else.
If I read you right, you're using flash on AUTO and metering the
exposure with a handheld flashmeter ? Why ? If you recompose and the
total scene reflectivity/background brightness changes, your
exposure is also changed. Once you know the true GN for your unit,
it is like working with an incident reading. Many flashes with adjustable
manual f/stops allow for precise and easy fill-ratio bracketing (yes,
it was possible long before the Wunderbricken landed in Roswell :-)
> > Probably buying an OM-2000 and a HD handlemount flash is the best
> > solution to the OM-fill-flash "problem". Any increase in synch speed
> > means a big difference in your fill-flash range & flexibility.
>
> Wouldn't any camera on manual be the same as using an OM-2000??
> Terry
No. In Mondo-OM, the homely OM-2000 is the only bod that
synchs above 1/60th. There's a sizeable difference there.
For example, with a flash unit of 4000 BCPS (Beam Candle Power Second
Output), the max range for 2:1 fill ratio is 10 feet at 1/60th synch.
Change the synch t 1/125th with the rest being equal, and now you
get 2:1 at 14 feet, which may not sound like much, but in the real world,
is sizeable.
If you use a leaf shutter camera that range expands to 21 feet
if you synch at 1/500th. This is why it is not the same...
For an excellent understanding of this, buy a tiny Kodak book called
the Kodak Master Photoguide, and read it very throroughly, checking out
the numbers in the tables, and figuring things out with your own
camera & flashes, and TEST shoot what you think you have learned to
see if it works.
*= Doris Fang =*
Ps. Before anyone points out my "error" in that I haven't included
ISO speed in the fill ranges, be aware that it doesn't matter...
Pps. This fill-range business is yet another reason why a short zoom
is your friend. Because with on-camera flash, in manual, without moving
(and changing distance/exposure/fill ratio), you can shoot several
different subject croppings/compositions, specially with a Winder/Motor
very quickly.
Ppps. Now that I've bored everyone to sleep...
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