I found your "easy as that" instructions hard to follow. Last I knew
ISO 400 was two stops above ISO 100, not "three or four stops". I can
"spot meter the highlight" with the camera but not with my Sekonic
L-358. Maybe I misunderstood the model number you used before (your
original mail is on another computer) but my L-358 does not do spot
metering.
A two stop difference is what the OM-4 highlight button does. Why do I
want to use three or four stops and how do I know which? One simple
test exposure or more complicated than that?
Sounds to me that the extra meter here is an additional complication.
While the camera doesn't have ISO1 and ISO2 settings for instant
readouts at the push of a button, if I'm shooting in bright sun over an
extended period of time why would I not just set the camera's ISO to
whatever magic number is required and only ever use spot metering on
highlights with the camera? Sounds to me like that would be much faster
and easier. No extra meter to carry around and no settings to transfer
anywhere.
The real key is the *reliable* determination of the clipping point. If
there's not a reliable fixed point then using "three or four" is no
protection since there's still the possibility of a one stop error.
Chuck Norcutt
On 1/19/2012 2:36 PM, Ken Norton wrote:
>> Got one and use it religiously for flash, especially fill flash.
>> Daylight? Don't need it.
>
> Well.... You were just talking about highlight protection and I just
> assumed you were referencing daylight.
>
> It's actually brilliantly easy with the Sekonic.
>
> 1. Set your ISO2 button to be three or four stops higher than your shooting
> ISO. (ISO1 is set at 100, ISO2 is set at 400).
>
> 2. Spot meter the highlight in the scene which you want to protect using
> ISO1. In Zone System terms, this is somewhere around Zone IV.
>
> 3. Press the ISO2 button and set your camera to the recommended settings
> (or equivalents).
>
> It's as easy as that. The newer Sekonics have a dedicated highlight
> function that does exactly the same thing and can even be programmed up
> with the clipping points for each film or sensor you use. Step one you do
> whenever you change yoiur base ISO, two and three is what you do when you
> actually want to take a reading.
>
> AG
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