I work exactly the same way like Ctein, the keys are:
- capture everything from the deepest shadows through the brightest
hightlights.
- as linear a form as is possible and not to use "clever" software.
All the above is available from Vuescan with Color balance "none" and do not
specify film type, just use "Generic", "Color".
I have never use ICC profile, when I know it exist for Vuescan I have almost
stopped shooting film, I extensively worked with the negatives that are
faded and no ICC target sample for them.
C.H.Ling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Moose" <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx>
> In particular:
>
> "Scanning film, especially negative film, is very straightforward in
> principle. People most often get into trouble when
> they try to get too "clever" about their scanning, hoping to divine some
> magical trick. The purpose of scanning should
> simply be to capture as much data as possible from the original film in a
> form that is easily manipulated on the
> computer. Choose scanner settings that will catch the longest density
> range in the film, hopefully everything from the
> deepest shadows through the brightest highlights (this can frequently be
> done with a not-excessively-expensive scanner),
> at as high a resolution as is practical, and in as linear a form as is
> possible.
>
> Aesthetically, such a scan will not look good: it will look flat, low in
> contrast and/or color saturation, and it will
> in no way make a good print by itself. Effectively, it is a digital
> negative. But, that's what you want to start off with."
>
> I'm not entirely in agreement with him. When scanning color neg film with
> an ICC profile, I usually find the scan to
> look quite good "right out of the box". However, I still am mostly
> interested in the histogram at that point - and he is
> the well known master printer.
>
> Moose
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