Darin Rhein wrote:
>That worked like a charm, all contacts are now spik-n-span.
>Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to have done any good,
>(though I'm sure it didn't hurt).
>
>
Bummer!
>Synch switch is on X, as it should be.
>
>I should have mention that both the shoes I have are cracked.
>Could this be the source of the problem?
>
>
Unlikely
>I've checked them with an ohm meter, both seem to be ok,
>although, one does have more resistance than the other.
>
>Therefore, I'm leaning toward the camera as the source of all the trouble.
>How low is the trigger voltage from the camera?
>
>
The trigger voltage comes from the flash. All the camera does is short
across the flash contacts.
>I only have an anolog volt meter, so I can't test anything below 1 volt.
>
You could put it across the shoe contacts and fire the shutter. But I
think the moment of contact is too brief to register on a meter, analog
or digital. The circuit is very simple. There are simply two switches,
one (FP) triggered earlier than the other (X). When you set the synch
switch to FP, it just puts the FP switch across the X switch. The X
switch will still make contact, but the flash has already been fired by
then.
Sooo. You could try setting the synch switch to FP. If the flash then
fires, it would indicate that the problem is in the X switch or the
connection to it. It wouldn't solve the problem, but would isolate where
it is. Unfortunately, the FP switch is easy to get at and the X not.
If the flash still didn't fire, you would know the problem is in the
shoe, unlikely, as you have tried two and they show continuity, in both
switches, again unlikely, or between the socket and the split to the two
switches. There are a couple of tiny solder joints under the top plate,
one to the bottom of the socket and one where that short wire is
soldered end to end with another. Either of those could be bad/broken, a
relatively easy repair.
Moose
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