John,
Yes, I have marvelled over my copy of Dalton's 1999 "Secret Worlds". Absolutely
jaw dropping pix.
Within my current budget, I have only enough flash illumination for 1/8000s @
f/32. So I won't expect complete stop-time, but it'll be close.
I'll try f/22 and 1/16000 for some of my shots to see how that works.
Matt
At 14:01 25-04-03 -0300, John Hudson wrote:
>British photographer Stephen Dalton in his 1982 book "Caught in Motion"
>talks about flash speeds of 1/20000 second needed to freeze humming bird
>wings. One of his humming bird shots at 1/3000 second still shows movement
>in the wings.
>
>This book is a stunning collection of high speed nature photos and can be
>found at
>
>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/067160872X/inktomi-bkasin-20/103-2093
>541-1460620
>
>jh
>
>
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt BenDaniel" <matt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Friday, 25 April, 2003 01:42 PM
>Subject: Re: [OM] photographing hummingbirds
>
>
>> William,
>>
>> Thanks. Your advice is appreciated, and my responses are below. However,
>if you read the web page by the world-class expert (Paonessa) referenced in
>my original message, you'd understand why I chose my approach. I have also
>seen similar advice in a hummer book by a another leading hummer
>photographer (Rucker).
>>
>> At 08:39 25-04-03 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
>> >You're asking questions that, unfortunately, can be best answered only by
>> >experimentation.
>>
>> When experiments are informed by experience, the advice of specialized
>experts, reading, and careful planning, the goals are likely to be achieved
>sooner. Perhaps even pretty close on the first try. The butterfly shots on
>my web site include my first attempts at SLR flash.
>>
>> >Those beautiful photos you see in books were not obtained
>> >on the first attempt! You're going to have to experiment with the
>equipment
>> >you have. I see a couple of things you need to consider.
>> >
>> >>> If you're synched at 1/60, you're going to have to be in a really dark
>> >area, even with ISO 100 film. f/32 is only one stop less than "sunny 16"
>> >exposure.
>>
>> Yes, the OM-4 syncs only at 1/60s :-(
>> I plan use an opaque shade over the scene. That'll get me another few
>stops of ghost suppression.
>> If I was using a camera system that synced at 1/250s, it would be easier.
>>
>> >>> Using multiple flashes close to the subject will almost certainly
>produce
>> >uneven illumination and (possibly) unpleasant shadows.
>>
>> I disagree. Multiple distributed light sources even out the illumination.
>See URL.
>>
>> >>> Flash duration and intensity are tied to each other. With the
>equipment
>> >you have, you can't simultaneously achieve high intensity and brief
>> >duration.
>>
>> Yes you can. Use multiple flashes. See URL.
>>
>> >>> How do you intend to force the hummingbirds to come within range of
>the
>> >camera?
>>
>> See URL. Hummers are hungry and bold creatures. I can show you some
>full-frame shots I took with a 90/2.
>>
>> >After figuring out how to get the hummingbird to "pose," I'd start by
>using
>> >_one_ flash and seeing what happens. Then go from there.
>> >
>> >I recommend borrowing a Polaroid 180 or 195, along with the close-up kit,
>> >and taking several test shots.
>>
>> More $ than I want to spend right now.
>> Also don't want to travel 2000 miles with more than the one full-size case
>of 35mm photo equipment I plan to have,
>> which is in addition to the 5 full-size cases of astrophotography
>equipment I will bring.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Matt BenDaniel
>> matt@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> http://starmatt.com
>>
>>
>> < This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
>> < For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
>> < Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
>>
>
>
>< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
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--
Matt BenDaniel
matt@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://starmatt.com
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