British photographer Stephen Dalton in his 1982 book "Caught in Motion"
talks about flash speeds of 1/20000 second needed to freeze humming bird
wings. One of his humming bird shots at 1/3000 second still shows movement
in the wings.
This book is a stunning collection of high speed nature photos and can be
found at
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/067160872X/inktomi-bkasin-20/103-2093
541-1460620
jh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt BenDaniel" <matt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, 25 April, 2003 01:42 PM
Subject: Re: [OM] photographing hummingbirds
> William,
>
> Thanks. Your advice is appreciated, and my responses are below. However,
if you read the web page by the world-class expert (Paonessa) referenced in
my original message, you'd understand why I chose my approach. I have also
seen similar advice in a hummer book by a another leading hummer
photographer (Rucker).
>
> At 08:39 25-04-03 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
> >You're asking questions that, unfortunately, can be best answered only by
> >experimentation.
>
> When experiments are informed by experience, the advice of specialized
experts, reading, and careful planning, the goals are likely to be achieved
sooner. Perhaps even pretty close on the first try. The butterfly shots on
my web site include my first attempts at SLR flash.
>
> >Those beautiful photos you see in books were not obtained
> >on the first attempt! You're going to have to experiment with the
equipment
> >you have. I see a couple of things you need to consider.
> >
> >>> If you're synched at 1/60, you're going to have to be in a really dark
> >area, even with ISO 100 film. f/32 is only one stop less than "sunny 16"
> >exposure.
>
> Yes, the OM-4 syncs only at 1/60s :-(
> I plan use an opaque shade over the scene. That'll get me another few
stops of ghost suppression.
> If I was using a camera system that synced at 1/250s, it would be easier.
>
> >>> Using multiple flashes close to the subject will almost certainly
produce
> >uneven illumination and (possibly) unpleasant shadows.
>
> I disagree. Multiple distributed light sources even out the illumination.
See URL.
>
> >>> Flash duration and intensity are tied to each other. With the
equipment
> >you have, you can't simultaneously achieve high intensity and brief
> >duration.
>
> Yes you can. Use multiple flashes. See URL.
>
> >>> How do you intend to force the hummingbirds to come within range of
the
> >camera?
>
> See URL. Hummers are hungry and bold creatures. I can show you some
full-frame shots I took with a 90/2.
>
> >After figuring out how to get the hummingbird to "pose," I'd start by
using
> >_one_ flash and seeing what happens. Then go from there.
> >
> >I recommend borrowing a Polaroid 180 or 195, along with the close-up kit,
> >and taking several test shots.
>
> More $ than I want to spend right now.
> Also don't want to travel 2000 miles with more than the one full-size case
of 35mm photo equipment I plan to have,
> which is in addition to the 5 full-size cases of astrophotography
equipment I will bring.
>
>
> --
> Matt BenDaniel
> matt@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://starmatt.com
>
>
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