In a message dated 10/9/98 11:20:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, sean@xxxxxxxxxx
writes:
<< Dear Mattias,
Thanks for answering my questions but I have to ask quite a few more.
Probably because I'm stupid and not really thinking, or it's Friday and
my head is filled with Y2K problems instead...I dunno but I'm having
trouble attempting to comprehend all this flash stuff. I know of only
two flash concepts - complete auto program mode, and the old
ISO/distance/F-stop tables.
> Yes you have auto mode,
>
> If you set the camera on AUTO-exposure, you will get TTL-flash metering.
> The camera will even tell if the object was over/under exposed via the
> viewfinder display.
1) So the intensity of the flash varies according to the aperture I set
(and the distance of the subject)??
2) I assume you're talking about the OTF over/under exposure symbols.
I found it very hard to get it to get it to blink over/under (by
setting high ISO, largest aperture, really close to the subject,
etc.) and when it did, it appeared after the shot was taken!! What's
the point of that?? I have to test/waste a frame to determine that
I'm over/under exposed??
The other Over symbol (bottom left) seems to beep depending on the
the ISO/distance/aperture but independent of flash.
3) I bought the "Complete Olympus User's Guide" today and it mentioned
"The T32, too, is equipped with a reversible panel for selecting the
flash mode. If the blank side is visible, the unit will use TTL
flash metering with the OM-2...".
The reversible panel on the T32 flash is only for the convenience of
the photographer right?? There aren't any hidden switches to detect
which side the panel is on?? Similary the same goes for the GN32 and
GN16 slide bar?? No electronic switches linked to them too??
> This controls are only applicable when ser the camera on MANUAL, and the
> shutter speed to 1/60th. The notches are, from the left of the back.- Full
> flash, GN 32 (meter) - "half" flash, GN 16 (meter)
> For these two notches you have calculate the aperture depending of the
> disatns to the object.
>
> After these there are three diffrent, flash-controled auto-exposure modes.
> All you have to is set the aperture to what is marked, and the falsh will
> control the amount of ligth. You have be carefule so the panels ASA,
> matches the film you use :).
I concede...I'm completely stupid and can't see how this works. I think
I understand you correctly :-
1) I can control the intensity of the flash by setting to GN 32 or GN
16. But the ISO->Distance->F-stop stays the same!! Therefore, if I
were to have ISO 100 and the subject is 4 metres away from me, the
table already says F8. If I play around with the GN 32<->16 slide,
I'll either under/over expose the shot!!
2) I don't even know where to begin with the other 3 notches :-).
> Call Olympus, and the will send you a manual for free.
No they won't :-(. I called up today and it's gonna cost me $10 per book
and I need 3 (OM-4Ti, T32, Bounce Grip 2).
Once again, I apologise for asking probably trivial questions to most of
you...but perplexing to me. Thank you for being so patient and assisting
me with this new system. I feel like I've skipped an entire generation to
manual flash photography. As mentioned before, I only know of the old
rigid F-stop table system and the complete auto program stuff.
> //Mattias
Sean >>
Sean,
You may want to look at the online Olympus documentation. There isn't a T32
manual there (yet) but there is one for the T20, which is *almost* the same.
It provides the same three modes: full manual, *normal* auto using the flash's
built-in sensor, and TTL auto, using the camera's metering system. It should
explain most of the concepts. The big differences between the T20 and T32 are
power and the T32 has a built-in TTL socket. You can find the manual at:
http://www.grue.net/olydocs
Alternately, you have the following methods of operation:
Full manual - you set the camera to manual, shutter to 1/60 (or slower),
determine camera to subject distance, and set the aperture based on the old-
fashioned GN calculation (the T32 offers 2 manual powers, GN 32 meters and GN
16 meters). You are apparently familiar with this method.
"Normal Auto" - set the camera to manual, shutter to 1/60 (or slower). Set the
film speed on the flash's calculator panel. You have 3 choices of aperture
with the T32, using the little sliding switch. The effective range at each
aperture is shown on the panel. Shoot away. Exposure is controlled by the
sensor in the flash
TTL Auto - set the camera to auto. Pick an aperture which results in a
displayed shutter speed of 1/60 (or slower - I use 1/30 just to be safe). Make
sure the calculator panel on the flash is reversed. Shoot away. Exposure is
controlled by the camera's meter. Over/Under displays appear in the finder as
appropriate.
The bounce grip is relatively simple. Put 4 "C" cells in it (you don't have
to, but one of the big advantages of the grip is more shots and quicker
recycle times). Mount the T32 in the grip (make sure you push it all the way
forwards). When you turn on the flash it will use the AA batteries in the
flash and the batteries in the grip. Connect a TTL cord from the connector on
the bottom of the grip to the connector on the front of the camera. You can
use th eflash with the grip in any of the three modes described above. You
don't need/want to use the PC cord in the grip with the OM-4Ti.
I hope this helps.
Paul Schings
Coventry, RI
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