Very informative post Chuck. I found it very useful and well explained. Thanks
Regards John Duggan, Wales, UK
From: Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Olympus Camera Discussion <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2016, 19:49
Subject: Re: [OM] Recent activity notes, some OT
There's nothing wrong with your E-M5 except, perhaps, operator error.
Mirrorless cameras have a lot more function than DSLRs and it's
necessary to know and understand the E-M5's capabilities.
When using MF lenses, you should place the camera in aperture preferred
mode (A). When you do you will find that the EVF will change brightness
when you change ISO, aperture or shutter speed. Far from being "dim" it
should appear as a properly exposed image *WHEN THE EXPOSURE IS CORRECT
AS PER THE CAMERA'S SETTINGS*.
For example, let's say a proper exposure for a given subject is ISO 200
at 1/800th second and f/8. With the camera at these settings and when
viewing the subject the EVF or screen should show a relatively bright
image representing what the actual exposure will look like. If we then
change the aperture to f/16 the brightness of the EVF should drop by 2
stops indicating underexposure. If we then correct the shutter speed
and increase it from 1/800th to 1/200th the screen should rebrighten and
once again indicate proper exposure. You should also see the exposure
compensation number change to 0 and also see a well formed histogram if
the histogram is turned on in the EVF.
As to using IBIS with MF lenses there are 2 different cases.
If the camera is on a tripod then IBIS should be turned off no matter
whether a MF or AF lens is in use. If the camera is not on a tripod
then IBIS should be turned on. However, the longer the lens the greater
the disturbance due to shakiness. Since the camera can't read the FL of
an MF lens, to compensate you need to tell the camera the focal length
of the MF lens. See page 49 of the owner's manual.
If I were attempting to do what you're trying to do (use the Zuiko 200/4
and 300/4.5) I would first start with a more modest lens such as a 50mm.
Using large and heavy lenses before you're fully familiar with the
operation of the camera with MF lenses just makes your initial learning
job much more difficult. Also, I wouldn't *test* these long lenses at 1
km. 1 km is certainly a reasonable distance for use of a 200-300mm lens
but the possibility of air turbulence and haze over such a long distance
makes judging the results difficult. Judge the lens bad if it can't
make a decent image at 50 meters while setting on a tripod with IBIS off
but not until.
Finally, you need to learn to use the magnify function to enhance your
MF efforts. This is not to be confused with "MF assist" using M.Zuiko
AF lenses. MF Assist can be turned on by turning the MF focusing collar
on an AF lens. But magnify is a related function which is turned on by
pressing whatever button the function is assigned to. I can't tell you
what it is but you should see the user's manual, page 93 and section at
the bottom labeled "Button Function". Press Menu -> Gears ->
Button/Dial/Lever -> Button Function and check to see which button is
associated with the magnify function (magnifying glass). While there
you can change it to something else if you prefer. "Press the button
once to display the zoom frame, again to
zoom in. Keep the button pressed to cancel zoom."
Chuck Norcutt
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