A sample of night shot with dilution 1:15, HC110, F16, 36sec.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6424506217_cee9d8e3f4_b.jpg
Regards,
Michael
On 9 July 2012 02:10, Michael Wong <michael1015@xxxxxx> wrote:
> Joel,
> Speak simply, my way is going to keep "one" contrast for my films. Most of
> my pictures are printed with #2-1/2 or #3 variable contrast filter for
> Ilford variable RC paper or variable fibre paper. If I developed films
> with one dilution for all contrast, I'll get different contrast films,
> it'll be very difficult to control printing in darkroom.
>
> My way, normally I wouldn't apply unofficial dilution H formula for my
> films since the film goes too "soft" except I need to compress the light
> area. But I am seldom to apply it.
>
> This is the sample of development with 1:10 dilution for strength the film
> contrast due to the shot were taken at very low contrast environment. This
> picture were taken in the end of Oct 2010, normally misty in Hong Kong's
> winter. I remember that day was very "grey". It was my first time to try
> dilution 1:10 to "push" contrast.
> http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1348/5145541163_af559b8ef2_b.jpg
>
>
> Time, temperature, frequency of agitation, and dilution will affect the
> film contrast, I'll keep same time, same temperature, same frequency of
> agitation but different dilution to control the contrast. My private, it's
> the easy way to control.
>
> Just my 2 cents.
>
>
> Regards,
> Michael
>
>
> On 9 July 2012 01:00, Joel Wilcox <jfwilcox@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>> I agree with your method. Much better to develop everything if possible
>> with the proper tonalities to print on a #2 paper (or whatever you
>> standardize on). There are many variables one can use to deviate from
>> standard practice in order to develop for unusual, non-standard
>> exposures.
>>
>> I have never heard of using different dilution strengths to meet these
>> different exposure conditions. That is quite an interesting approach.
>> Most people, I would guess, use a single dilution and vary the amount of
>> development time to increase or decrease contrast in the negatives.
>>
>> I think I understand your methods clearly enough. I just don't really
>> know what dilution strength you are using compared to me. 1:20 is a
>> very strong dilution of the version of HC110 I use and would require a
>> very short development time for a slower film. It wouldn't be a useful
>> dilution level, in terms of my experience with the HC110 I have
>> available in the USA) to decrease the contrast of the negative. So I
>> have concluded that we are using ratios like 1:20 or 1:63 (which is what
>> dilution H is in parts of HC110 syrup to water) in different ways. In
>> other words, your "1" part of HC110 is different from my "1."
>>
>> Dilution H (1:63) is unofficial, not really sanctioned by Kodak, and
>> provides a lot of flexibility to alter development effects by changing
>> agitation or time of development. It is considered good for
>> compensating development, which allows the developer to become exhausted
>> in the highlight areas while allowing the lower tones to develop more,
>> so it can be a good dilution strength to accomplish the same thing you
>> had in mind in your example.
>>
>> Thanks for sharing your experiences with HC110.
>>
>> Joel W.
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 8, 2012, at 10:33 PM, Michael Wong wrote:
>> > As my another post said, my dilution forms are not "general formula". My
>> > teacher taught me to develop films with different dilutions for
>> different
>> > contrast shots. Thus, do not think any "general formula" on my pictures.
>> > I
>> > consider the film development process to make enlarging prints more
>> easy.
>> >
>> > Some of my classmates wouldn't care the process of film development and
>> > make enlarging prints difficulty. They'd rather to enhance printing
>> > skills
>> > to "rescue" the picture more than concentrate at preparation before
>> > shots,
>> > how to develop a good film. I understood "rescue skills" in darkroom is
>> a
>> > benefit for those pictures are not good in shooting or developing but
>> > there
>> > will spend much of time & money for a picture. Thus, I will take good
>> > preparation before the shot & develop a good film more than to "rescue"
>> a
>> > picture. That's my view, just share my 2 cents.
>>
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