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Re: [OM] Contax G

Subject: Re: [OM] Contax G
From: Ken Norton <ken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 11:36:25 -0500
Moose de P wrote:
> Same reason as P mode. "I used P mode exactly once (and it saved my tail
:-))."
> When he needs it, it's there to save his tail. Cheap insurance.


It wasn't that long ago that I frequently railed against P(ark your brains)
Mode and was proud to say that only a tiny fraction of my pictures were
taken in it. Being a PROFESSIONAL and EXPERT, I used Aperture Priority Mode
instead. I know, I know, a fine point.

Well, the key to be a professional is knowing when to select the right tools
for the application. There are more and more times when auto-everything is
actually the best possible choice. It has nothing to do with
laziness--actually, quite the opposite. It is critical for a professional to
know his tools. Before using any mode, feature or function of a camera in a
critical situation, (ie, I'm getting paid for it), it is very important to
know how the camera will respond and work in that situation. This is not
guesswork, but comes through practice, testing and validation. Sticking with
manual exposure modes is actually an easy way out for some of us because we
don't actually have to practice, test and validate, just wing around our
handheld meter, punch in our "safe" settings and go. Sure, there is a time
and place for that, but recognizing when the computer can do it better or
faster than us is important.

When you stick with one mode, you don't need to worry your happy little mind
with the nuances of pre-flash measurements, meter patterns, exposure
offsets, etc.

Years ago, when I purchased my first wonderbrick, the IS-1, I learned that a
couple of the program modes were not only simply outstanding, but opened up
all new avenues of photographic exploration. I still keep my IS-3 around and
use it on occasion just because of a couple of features it has which no
other camera does as well. Oh, and the fact that it's worthless on the
resale market so it costs me nothing to keep it.

The Minolta A1 is also like the IS-3 in that it has a "way of thinking"
which really enhances your abilities--not just replacing them. This camera
sees almost exactly 1/3, 1/3 and 1/3 usage between Program Mode (Idiot Green
setting), Aperture Priority Mode and Manual Mode. But it has taken me years
of working with the camera to get the settings optimized to the point where
I can instinctively use the camera in any of the three ways of shooting
without hesitation and worry. It just works. It also took a long time to
figure out how that metering system worked and how to exploit it. The E-1's
metering system isn't nearly as slick and Program Mode more often than not
sucks pond water. The DMC-L1's Program Mode (Double-A) is quite good, but
the metering system is the E-1's with Panasonic and Leica's take on it which
is better in some situations, horrible in others. Unlike the Minolta, I
can't really trust either camera in Program mode except in very narrow
situations.

Just to reiterate... Except for the one issue with polarizers and ND
filters, the metering and exposure system in the Minolta A1 is absolutely
the best non OM-3Ti/4Ti systems ever placed in a camera. It has to be a very
rough day for that sysem to be defeated and go down in a flaming heap of pig
dung. A crash-and-burn doesn't happen often, but it is spectacular!

Going full-circle on this...

I do tend to configure my cameras so they operate in the same manner. As I'm
mixing and matching three different digital cameras from three different
brands, this isn't something that just happens. When each camera enters the
fold, I try to force it into the same configuration as the older cameras,
but what usually happens is that it has some limitation or even quirky
advancement which I want to adopt, so I'll actually end up reconfiguring the
older cameras to match the newer one. The Minolta A1 has undergone no less
than three major configuration changes! But the AEL/AFL button tends to be
sacred ground. I've tried remapping it to be the AF activate button, but
really isn't necessary because I choose cameras where the MF/AF switch is
easily adjusted. The E-1's switch is brilliantly located and is probably the
most worn out part on that camera. I suppose that if my cameras didn't have
this easily accessable switch, I'd convert to MF+AEL instant focus.

I will mention my most disgusting forced configuration change. The Minolta
A1 allowed you to configure the two control dials so the aperture was always
the front or rear and the shutter speed the front or rear. This was great
because no matter if I was in manual, aperture-priority or speed-priorty
modes, the dials were fixed to the function. The aperture dial never changed
location. When I bought the E-1, I learned the ugly truth that the Minolta
was about the only camera on the face of the planet that gave you that
amount of flexibility. So, I had to change the camera to match the
dumbed-down E-1. Years later, I still haven't a clue which dial has the
aperture until I move it and watch what setting changed. Depending on the
mode, the aperture is either the front dial or the rear dial. Or is it the
rear dial or the front dial? Does it rotate to the right for increase or to
the left? Oops, right on front, left on rear--unless the dial is changed to
exposure-compensation which rotates right for increase on one camera, but
that's decrease on another. Heaven forbid that I actually use
shutter-priority as everything reverses again, but with what dials in which
direction on which camera? Oh, and in Program mode, does the rear dial
control exposure compensation and the front control exposure-offset? or is
the front controlling flash exposure compensation and the rear controlling
normal exposure compensation or is the front controlling nothing at all?

But the OM system had its quirks too. I'm still clueless as to what the
exposure-compensation dial on the OM-3Ti is for. It's a MANUAL camera for
Pete's sake!

I know, I know. Practice, test and validate.

AG
-- 
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