Setting any sort of auto mode doesn't allow you to disengage the brain. :-)
If you insist on shutter of 1/125 or faster and aperture f/4 or smaller
then you are still required to check (periodically at least) that your
requirements are within the range of the available light.
But you did not mention Auto ISO. If you are using full automatic mode
or Program mode and you set auto ISO the ISO range is allowed to go up
to ISO 3200 on its own. I don't have a 5D Mk II but the 5D is pretty
much noiseless up to ISO 400. I'm sure the 5D Mk II is probably the
same up to ISO 800. But, of course, it doesn't matter if a noisy ISO is
selected or not if that's what's required to get the shot because you're
not going to get it otherwise.
I rarely shoot the 5D in any kind of automatic mode but when I do I use
evaluative metering mode and have adopted Moose's convention of setting
a -2/3 stop exposure compensation. That's required to keep the camera
from blowing highlights. Same with my Minolta A1. You can't trust it
without the -2/3 compensation.
I don't have any inconsistency problems with exposure with the 5D but,
like all DSLRs these days the metering cells are in the pentaprism area
ala OM-1. Pull your eye back from the eyepiece too far and you will
expose the metering cells to extraneous light from the eyepiece. I'm
afraid we've lost the OTF metering cells in the bottom of the mirror box
to "progress". I one bought a third-party tear-drop eyecup for the 5D
like I used to use on my OM-1 but it wouldn't stay on the camera.
I don't understand problems with the Tokina. Mine just works. I don't
know how it compares with other lenses at large apertures but I have
tested it at 28mm against the the Zuiko 28/2.8 at f/5.6 and up. At
f/5.6 it's slightly softer than the Zuiko but is its equal at f/8 and
smaller. I considered that good for a 2.8 zoom. But I would expect the
DZ lenses to perform better at larger apertures. First, they're newer
designs and... they have to in order to avoid diffraction problems on
4/3 size sensors. But your 5D Mk II will make up for it by allowing
smaller apertures via higher ISO.
Chuck Norcutt
SwissPace wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> After focussing problems using the OM 35/80/2.8 with my 5D2, I finally
> settled on using it in Tv (shutter priority) mode with aseting of 1/125
> and then adjusting the aperture manually with iso set to auto which gave
> me automatic exposure so with the lens set at F8 or so I could focus
> quite quickly and it did seem to work reasonable well.
>
>
> In the meantime I have been thinking about switching over to canyon
> glass ( the 70-200/4 is I am unhappy to say very good ;-) - although
> sometimes AF gets confused and is not as good as E-3). A few weeks ago I
> saw a tokina 28-80/2.8 ATX pro that chuck uses and recommends come up on
> the local auction site so I put a bid on it and forgot about it. Last
> week I got a call from my wife asking what lens I had bought now! it
> seems I was the only one to bid and had won it.
>
> Stupidly on Saturday I used only that lens without prior testing for our
> trip to the forest in P mode, when I loaded the pictures up none were
> sharp, I had read subsequent reviews that said the lens is not sharp and
> wondered if I had bought a dud, but knowing chuck was happy with his I
> investigated further and saw most of the shutter speeds were 1/30 or
> 1/60 so the reason the images weren't sharp is because of camera shake.
>
> So now the question is how do I set up the camera so that the shutter
> speed doesn't drop below 1/125 (unless I want it) and that the aperture
> stays above F4 (its looks a bit soft at F2.8 but I need to verify that)
> unfortunately unlike the OM lenses I cannot set the aperture manually on
> the lens. Yes I could use the camera in manual mode but I would like to
> only have to concentrate on focus - for my quick shots. My family and
> guests are very patient but I am often under time pressure to take my
> photos.
>
> Also I noticed using the shift that the exposure varied considerably
> with the metering seemingly inconsistent, could this be light entering
> through the eyepiece or some other anonoly, I tried it with evaluative
> centre and spot meter modes but found that sometimes it would way
> overexpose..
>
> I am on the verge of jumping ship, and if it wasn't for my OM zuiko's I
> would probably sell all and follow in Bob's footsteps to get a nykon
> D700 (D3 is too big for me) back for the apparently brilliant 12-24/2.8
> - if I stick with canyon however I can use the nykon 12-24/2.8 lens and
> my OM glass. I think however my days with Olympus digital are
> numbered, although I wish I had the E-3 with me when it was pouring down
> with rain at Stein am Rhein last week. --- Where oh where is that
> perfect camera? - why oh why didn't digital film reach production?
>
> any advice appreciated
>
> IanW
--
_________________________________________________________________
Options: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/listinfo/olympus
Archives: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/private/olympus/
Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
|