On 7/5/2010 4:07 AM, C.H.Ling wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Moose"<olymoose@xxxxxxxxx>\
>
>> You buy one way, I buy another. It means nothing, statistically, but is
>> amusing, that I have had only one HD failure in my life. And that cost me
>> only a few minutes of time and $5 shipping, as
>> it failed immediately.
> May be the different in experience count, without serious counting I have
> used more than 12pcs 3.5" hard disks and the number of failure is around 4.
Sitting at my desk, there are at least 10 3.5" HDs in the room. Add the living
room, where two are now dedicated to DVR
overflow for a dozen more or less active. Go down to the basement to add maybe
three more in old boxes I haven't got rid
of yet. Only one failure for me.
Only five 2.5" drives here, and one in the living room. No failures there.
> No one was DOA, all worked for over a year, that was a lot. The experience in
> PC production during the 80's and 90's also contributed some. I saw rather
> high failure rate in the late 80's 3.5" full height HD.
Do you suppose heat has been a factor for you? I guess drives have always run
fairly hot, but it seems like the higher
capacity, higher rotational speed ones of more recent years run really hot.
Before I got more external enclosures and the docking station, this latest box
had four 3.5" HDs in it. It just seemed
too hot in there to me. I did some research and found HDTune, a little free app
that does a number of HD functions,
including reporting the temperature.
Some of my drives were way above specified temp! I took a drive out and added
two dual fans that sit on the bottom of
drives. I also took a critical look inside the box and looked at what I
imagined to be the airflow.
My box has an Intel motherboard, and you can tell they pay most attention to
their processor. There is a special hole in
the side with a tube that goes right over the processor fan/heatsink. The MB
adjusts main fan speed based on temp up
near the processor.
First thing I did was to cover one input grill that I though was in the wrong
place - HD temps went down. So I added a
fan that blows out through a backplane card interface opening. It's possible to
snap it into the bracket eight
direction, so I was able to fact the input in the direction I wanted.
Then another drive migrated out. Now, the HDs run well below maximum temp spec.
>
> Wow, I don't know there are microprocessor controlled toaster oven, ours is
> simple metallic thermal controlled one. It works and gives rather consistant
> result and cost one third of a 1TB HD. We are not very demanding on toaster
> oven as we use it less than once a week.
I now use it as my primary oven, so the extra control is very useful. Probably
bigger than yours, too.
> Haha! It also happen that I'm the cook at the house after retired and I cook
> for four.
I've been the primary cook in my household for decades, for numbers varying
from one to five.
> I'm rather fond of hi-tech oven, six years ago we purchased a Panasonic top
> inverter type microwave oven with steam and heater, it was over $500 but
> eventually found it is even poorer than our old microwave only oven. The
> problem is uneven heat on the food when microwave is used, it is due to
> missing a turntable. Last year, it failed and retired, we purchased another
> Panasonic, same type but much cheaper ($300), I expected the microwave
> problem was solved but unfortunately it is the same.
Now THAT's when reading lots of reviews pays off. People do write user reviews
and tell about things you otherwise
wouldn't know. My microwave is a simple, inexpensive one, with turntable that
cooks quite evenly.
> BTW, isn't all toast oven using heating wire? How it can save electricity?
It uses rods, but you are right - all electric resistance heat is about the
same efficiency. More efficient for me
because I use it instead of the ancient oven in my range. Much smaller volume
to heat. Also, it has a convection mode,
which shortens cooking times. Very, very seldom do I need the larger oven.
Moose
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