This looks helpful - he recommends (fire-resistant) foam to fill the gap...
Jez
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1427605
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Post]<http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=795305&sid=ef8160e9c82e99b94abe738b9702511a#795305>Posted:
Fri Jan 11, 2008 6:02 pm Post Subject:
Fire door, fitting guidelines
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Hi,
I think I may have a bit more info to help you, you dont need to get a 'pro'
in, they are fairly simple, as long as your a confident and careful
carpenter.
First the door has to be a minimum of 30min fire resistance, which I think
you have covered. These are refered to as FD30's
Intumiscent FIRE and SMOKE seals are required. These are strips of a plastic
sort or material that expands when subjected to heat of about 200 degrees to
seal the door. These must be rebated in to the sides and top of the door
using a router.
All ironmongery on your door must be heat fire resistant up to 800 degree's,
most timber/builder merchants supply these.
3 Hinges are compulsary
If a letter box is to be fitted, you need to fit a intumiscent letter box
These are commonly available at timber merchants.
The door stop can be part of the door frame or added separately, but
dimensions must be no less then 12.5 x 35mm they must be glued and screwed
on, not nailed.
Door closers are to conform to BSEN1154, ideally a surface mounted closer
should be fitted. I really would recommend any other type as these can
easily be fitted, maintained and replaced if needed.
Another important factor is the gap between the door frame, and the door
opening to which is fixed. Usually a frame will be slightly too small for
the opening and packers are used to level it, the archiatrave covers the
gap. Ensure that expanding fire resistant foam is used to fill this void.
It is imporatant to fit the door well, 2-3 mm is usually acceptable all
round.
Another thing to be carefull of is that a traditional, key oporated mortice
lock is not acceptable. A latching lock must be fitted instead (incase a
fire occurs and the key cant be found basically)
I think this covers all points.
You may want to bare in mind that the local councils, together with the
local fire officer have the overall sayso in what precautions are taken to
fire proof a building, these may differ slightly from fire regulations. It's
usefull to pop into your local fire station, there should be someone who can
give you some guidlines.
OR the easiest thing to do, remembering that if you fit a fire door and
there is a fire, if it does not do it's job, you'll be to blame, is to buy a
Fire door set. these are door linings, and doors, ready made up to fit. The
doors already hung, the intumiscent strips are fitted and they will even fit
any ironmongery. All you do is fit the frame and slot the door onto the lift
off hinges. Couldnt be simpler and would put your mind at rest that its done
properly. Any builder/Timber merchant can help you with these.
Hope this is all usefull to you. All the best. JW
On Fri, Jan 22, 2010 at 2:00 PM, SwissPace <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Thanks Guys,
>
> I had considered that but I was worried about the thickness, the wall is
> about 18cm thick whereas the mortar seal around the frame would only be
> 3-4cm - it only needs to resist for 30 minutes (the spec of the door)
> and it should be ok but I thought I would ask the oracle here first. ;-)
>
> IanW
>
> On 22/01/2010 13:47, Rick Beckrich wrote:
> > I would agree with Jez. Might suggest stuffing some fibreglass insulation
> > into the gap before applying the mortar. (To prevent the 'mud' from
> spilling
> > out the backside.)
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >> My 2 swiss cents
> >>
> >> If regular mortar is considered good enough between the bricks/blocks
> then
> >> it ought to be good enough in the gaps around the frame.
> >>
> >>
>
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