Ken,
Your advice is duly noted. Thanks for the details.
Jim Nichols
Tullahoma, TN USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Norton" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Olympus Camera Discussion" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 10:59 PM
Subject: Re: [OM] IMG: Learning About the E-1
> The way review screen is on the E-1 with the "brightness" set to a normal
> setting (brightness is only an LCD angle adjustment on the E-1) chimping
> is
> somewhat an artform.
>
> When chimping, if using flash, I like the face to be about one stop too
> high. When processing the RAW file you and up pretty much right on. This
> is
> really no different than shooting Fujicolor 160s or 400h where you get
> your
> best results when you derate everything by 2/3 a stop.
>
> But non-flash is a little different. I prefer to make it a little hot, but
> not too much because when you are shooting ambient under artificial
> lighting
> you run a HUGE risk of massive and uncontrolled color shifts. The native
> color temperature of the digital sensor is approximately 5300K, but when
> you
> have to shift the WB to as low as 3600-3900K, you are nearly guaranteed to
> have something skew because the blue, green and red channels do not blow
> out
> in a linear fashion. Exposing to the right without a 3-channel histogram
> is
> suicide. Even with a three-channel histogram (which the E-1 does not
> have),
> you may still run into problems because when you color correct to a 3900K
> color temperature your highlights will usually take on strange cyan color
> casts. The reason why I get away with it when shooting flash is because
> the
> color temperature of the flash is nearly the same as the natural
> sensitivity
> of the sensor so minimal WB adjustment is necessary.
>
> This isn't a contradiction of Chuck's recommendations, but a fine tuning
> of
> them specifically for the E-1. With the E-1, it is far better to get noise
> than color shifts. Once you get the shifts, there's not much you can do to
> fix them. I believe that this is actually a wide-spread problem with
> people
> shooting ETTR (expose to the right) but few know how to recognize the
> cause
> of the problem.
>
> When shooting indoor ambient stuff and using auto exposure, I do not use
> ESP. I change from ESP mode to center-weighted. The reason is pretty
> simple.
> If there is a bright light anywhere in the scene the exposure meter will
> underexpose by about two stops as it attempts to "protect the highlight".
>
> I prefer to have the histogram "hump" pretty much in the middle, maybe a
> touch to the right. Unlike the ETTR Zealots, I prefer to get the in-camera
> image as close to the end result as possible. If the "hump" is a bit to
> the
> right you end up doing very little exposure adjustment and the extent of
> your adjustments are white-balance and a bit of low-end contrast boost. If
> you pull the shadows down the noise stays low, the image is snappier and
> the
> mids and highs stay intact.
>
> AG
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