With Canyon DPP it may be ok but for Olympus Master not, there is no curve
under RAW manual, you can't make subtle adjustment, the contrast step is too
wide for my taste. Olympus Master do has curve under "Edit" manual but you
lost the WB and Exposure control what a strange design. Olympus Studio 2
integrated them but you have to pay for it.
There are many other post processing require 16 bit like highlight/shadow
control, softer effect workflow also require curve up the brightness after
processing.
C.H.Ling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Norcutt"
> However, when processing the raw file, if you have done all adjustments
> that affect pixel brightness (exposure, shadows, highlights, color
> balance, saturation, etc, etc, then there is no need to save the output
> file in other than JPEG since 16 bit precision will no longer be
> required. The only remaining editing operation that can affect pixel
> brightness level is sharpening and that will be minor and OK in JPEG.
>
> Chuck Norcutt
>
>
> C.H.Ling wrote:
>> To make it simple, I recommend Olympus Master 2 (it is free) to covert
>> your
>> image. I mainly use the Exposure and WB function (a slide bar to set the
>> color temp you wanted), you can also adjust contrast, sharpness,
>> saturation... like you do inside the camera. For E-300 it even gives the
>> option of disable the noise filter to gain more sharpness that is not
>> available in the camera JPEG setting.
>>
>> With E-1 I usually set -1/3 stop during shooting so that you can have
>> more
>> room for highlight which does not recover well with Olympus Master. For
>> under exposed image you can do a lot to it up to +2 stop during RAW
>> conversion.
>>
>> You can save your converted file in 16 bit Tiff or 8 bit JPEG for further
>> processing.
>>
>> C.H.Ling
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