Does it do it with all lenses or with no lens mounted at all?
___________________________________
John Hermanson | CPS, Inc.
21 South Ln., Huntington NY 11743
631-424-2121 | www.zuiko.com
Olympus OM Service since 1977
Gallery: www.zuiko.com/album/index.html
Fernando Gonzalez Gentile wrote:
> New findings:
>
> 1) EMC model 105 multimeter, after calibration and ruling out parallax
> error, measures both the Renata 357 in use *and* a new pair at normal
> temperature and humidity - well above 1.5. They are, in fact, rated
> 1.55V but I measured all four at a little less than 1.6. A value of
> 1.58V could be a good guess.
>
> 2) The smallest Philips screwdriver I could buy in town, fits Ok into
> *three* of the bottom screws. And no, I didn't find any of those three
> anywhere near loose, and didn't want to overtorque them, neither unscrew
> them. BUT I found that the screw at the left, the one near the battery
> cap is damaged by overtorque. It's not obvious, paint is Ok - but my
> tiny Plilips screwdriver won't fit into it, and quickly snaps out of it,
> if I try to screw it with the faintest clockwise torque. This one could
> be loose, or not - I cannot tell. It's damaged.
>
> 3) No, I'm not getting lockup on every shot - but when it locks up, I'm
> not able to know when will it stop locking.
>
> Sending this one to the list, and redundantly to John and to Moose from
> my three email addresses (different SMTPs)
>
> TIA
>
> Fernando
>
> --- out 'till Friday at 5 pm local time.
>
> John Hermanson wrote:
>> New silver oxide are usually 1.55 - 1.59V. If you get good battery
>> check and still get lockup ON EVERY SHOT, then there is a more serious
>> problem. The only screws to tighten are the 4 on the bottom. The hole on
>> the leading edge is supposed to be there.
>> ___________________________________
>> John Hermanson | CPS, Inc.
>> 21 South Ln., Huntington NY 11743
>> 631-424-2121 | www.zuiko.com
>> Olympus OM Service since 1977
>> Gallery: www.zuiko.com/album/index.html
>>
>>
>> Moose wrote:
>>
>>> Fernando is having trouble with posts here and to John Hermanson
>>> bouncing. Here at his request is his latest.
>>> =========================================================
>>> Hola Moose,
>>>
>>> Thanks for answering :-)
>>>
>>> "Machines take by surprise with great frequency" - Alan Turing.
>>>
>>> Moose wrote:
>>>
>>>> Classic symptoms of two things.
>>>>
>>>> 1. Failing battery. Although most characteristic of non-silver oxide
>>>> batteries, I could see this happening with silver oxides at just the
>>>> right stage in their useful lives. Especially with the 303/357, with
>>>> its long slow decline discharger curve (as opposed to earlier 357
>>>> later 357/303).
>>>>
>>>> The why is simple. Battery load in metering, lighting test button,
>>>> operating self timer, etc. is quite low. AND, none of these but the
>>>> battery check cares much about the voltage.
>>>>
>>>> BUT, battery drain holding the second curtain open during exposure is
>>>> quite high. AND, the exposure circuit is very picky about voltage, as
>>>> insufficient voltage could mean mis-exposure. Voltage is checked just
>>>> as maximum strain is put on the battery, it fails the test and the
>>>> camera aborts the exposure.
>>>>
>>>> Unfortunately, the battery check light on the OM-4 series bodies is
>>>> not very good. Check with a voltmeter.
>>>>
>>> Done. My new Renata 357 batteries measured 1.5 dead-on.
>>>
>>> just checlked a couple of almost new 357s
>>>
>>>> If voltage is below 1.5v, try another set. It doesn't matter if the
>>>> batteries are "new", as manufacturing defects or time in the
>>>> distribution channel crop up from time to time.
>>>>
>>>> 2. Poor electrical contacts in the battery circuit. This is most
>>>> commonly loose screws holding the bottom plate on, but can be
>>>> oil/corrosion where the plate makes contact or elsewhere in the circuit.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Most probably this one may be the cause. Glad to have ruled out the
>>> memory clear button and the self-timer left On.
>>> Removed the bottom cap after tightening to check if it was loose. It
>>> admitted a less than one degree of tightening, not much.
>>> Removed the batteries, measured them, cleaned both at each one's
>>> surface, inspected the batteries chamber and everything looked quite clean.
>>> Put the batteries again, tightened firmly and fired: it failed ... red
>>> 1/60, fired again: it worked. Continued to shoot both with winder2 and
>>> shutter release button, it didn't fail. Even took my time to check
>>> shutter speeds using my TV set. Loaded the RDPIII. Shall wait until it
>>> happens again ... :-(
>>>
>>>> The why is similar to above. At low current, there is little enough
>>>> resistance through the problem spot that everything seems normal. With
>>>> higher current, the voltage loss across the poor connection is great
>>>> enough to lower the voltage too much for shutter operation.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> OhM rules !!
>>>
>>>> If truly fresh batteries and tightening the bottom plate screws don't
>>>> cure the symptoms,
>>>>
>>> How do I tighten those screws? Which one are they, btw? The black screws
>>> which can be seen from the outside of the camera, at the farthest right
>>> and left of the bottom plate - or something hidden inside the battery
>>> chamber?
>>>
>>>> take the plate off and clean the bottom of the body casting around
>>>> where the screw holes are, including use of a rough eraser, fine
>>>> sandpaper or some such on at least one hole.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Damn! - that might wear the paint off the black screws !! And I'd need a
>>> crosspoint [destornillador] !.
>>> You're talking about my 'new' OM 4Ti :-)
>>>
>>> BTW, this failure made me remember of very recent one I had.
>>> Strangely enough, I hadn't use my power amplifier since maybe the
>>> beginning of June (nor had I used the 4Ti, which arrived on those days -
>>> that is almost the whole winter).
>>> On August 24, I turned it On. No sound from the left loudspeaker,
>>> everything else looked Ok.
>>> Did the usual troubleshooting: it was the power amp, no doubt.
>>> Time to buy a new one? Calmed down and thought a little (yes, I'm able
>>> to think very clearly under stress).
>>> At its back, the Bryston 4B SST has three switches, only one of them was
>>> suppressed in the newer 4B SST², the ground lift. The other two switch
>>> the amp from balanced to single-ended inputs, and from individual
>>> channels to bridged mode. Switched those switches (amp *Off*) up and
>>> down several times. Most probable, the balanced - single-ended selector
>>> switch got dirt or moisten (we have cold an humid winters here). At
>>> first, left channel didn't sound as loud as it should, repeated the
>>> procedure and it's now as good as ever.
>>>
>>> And all their screws are perfectly black ;-)
>>>
>>> Fernando.
>>> --- does the idiomatic expression 'loose screws' mean something for
>>> English speaking people?
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
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