I forgot. There is another solution. That's to use a P&S type camera
with an electronic shutter. I don't know how it works but my Mynolta A1
has both electronic and mechanical shutters. It essentially has no sync
limits when using the internal flash. The instruction manual says to
limit shutter speed to 1/250 when using external Mynolta flash units but
I know it syncs with my Canon 540EZ at higher speeds than that. Here's
what the manual says:
-------------------------------------------------------
This camera does not have a preset flash sync speed. In program (P) or
aperture-priority (A) exposure mode, the shutter speed will not fall
below the camera-shake limit unless the slow-sync function is activated
(p. 87). When using shutter-priority (S) or manual (M) exposure mode,
any shutter speed can be used in the exposure.
The flash can synchronize with the camera at any shutter speed, the
5600HS(D) and 3600HS(D) high-speed sync function is unnecessary. When
using flash, the shutter speed should be set to the flash duration of
flash unit to prevent underexposure. A maximum shutter speed of 1/250s
is recommended when using a compatible Minolta flash unit.
--------------------------------------------------------
I haven't been able to figure out exactly what this is supposed to mean.
One one hand it says the high speed sync mode (like FP280) of the
Mynolta 5600HS and 3600HS flash units is not required. On the other
hand it says to limit shutter speed to 1/250 on compatible flash units.
Both of these flashes are identified elsewhere as "compatible flash
units". I suppose it could be tied to TTL use of these flashes since I
know it syncs at faster than 1/250 when used with external manual flash.
Chuck Norcutt
James R wrote:
> I did end up increasing iso, and that was the easiest way round the
> problem, but I did want it all - that's what digital camera's are for,
> isn't it? ;) I should have investigated the FP flash function to see
> if it could operate with the flash off camera - next time.
>
> James
>
>
>
> On 18 Feb 2009, at 00:37, Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>
>> Your solution is to up the ISO probably by two stops worth from
>> whatever
>> base you were at... and increase the shutter speed accordingly. As to
>> the fill flash sync problem that will create... well, you can't have
>> it
>> all unless you're willing to spring for some different equipment. Got
>> any FP bulbs around?
>>
>> Dr. Flash
>>
>>
>> James R wrote:
>>> On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 11:13 AM, Ken Norton wrote:
>>>> Thy don't sit still long enough to keep a flash picture from getting
>>>> blurred. ;)
>>> This brought to mind a problem I had recently where I had to take
>>> some
>>> photos of a runner. It was an overcast day so I wanted to add a bit
>>> of
>>> flash to give some proverbial punch, but not completely overpower
>>> daylight. I thought someone jogging would be 'stopped' adequately by
>>> 1/250th of a sec, but it turned out that even at 1/500th I was
>>> getting
>>> a little movement. It really needed something like 1/800th to freeze
>>> movement completely.
>>>
>>> My camera has a 1/250th sync speed, excluding the 'super' flash mode
>>> which wasn't an option for me. So the only way I could get something
>>> close to what I wanted was to use 1/500th and only have the flash
>>> illuminate the top half of the runner, which looked alright as that
>>> coincided with the horizon. I can't help thinking that I've missed
>>> something and there's some way of getting this to work just fine -
>>> any
>>> suggestions?
>>>
>>> James
>>>
>>>
>> --
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>
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