I'm back and thought I would add a bit about flash. Even if you hire a
photographer you might still want to take your camera to get a few shots
of your own. You might also want to take a flash and I don't understand
why you think you can't use the Nikon with other than the SB-15.
The Metz 45-CL4 can act as a TTL flash but you're obviously not using it
in TTL mode on the OM-1. I don't see any reason why you couldn't also
use the Metz on either the Nikon or the Pentax... assuming you so
desired. Perhaps the Nikon and Pentax don't have PC connectors like the
OM-1 does but that's not a problem if you add a Nikon AS-15 hot shoe to
PC adapter for $18.95. You can buy a Chinese made equivalent at Ritz or
on ebay for less but the AS-15 is exceptionally well made in comparison
and you can use it on any brand camera.
<http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/37086-REG/Nikon_3066_AS_15_Sync_Terminal_Adapter.html>
Since the Vivitar 283 has potentially very high trigger voltage I
wouldn't use it on other than the OM-1 without measuring to see if it's
safe on the FG and KX/KM which I assume have electronically controlled
shutters and *might* be damaged by flash units having trigger voltages
much over 12 volts.
That still leaves the Metz as a very powerful flash which also has that
nice little wink light in the front for fill-in flash when using the
bounce. And that's exactly the way I'd use this flash when indoors with
moderately low ceilings. Point the flash head up to the ceiling and
slightly forward (which will cast shadows under the eyes, nose and chin)
but the Metz's wink light in front is supposed to solve that. Sounds
good but I've never used one. I just point the bounce head up in the
air and put a little white reflector card at the edge of the beam to
direct a bit of it forward for fill. Probably a little bit softer light
then the Metz's front facing flash tube. But it should surely work.
I was a little concerned about your notion of shooting flash at subjects
35-40 feet away. Not sure why you want to do that but I wouldn't
recommend it unless there's absolutely nothing between you and the
subjects. Flash intensity varies by the square of the distance. If
you're shooting someone 40 feet away and have proper exposure for that
distance, someone 28 feet away is 1 stop overexposed, someone 20 feet
away is 2 stops overexposed, 14 feet away is 3 stops overexposed and 10
feet away is 4 stops overexposed. In other words, everything out to
about 14 feet is going to look like a white ghost. Keep the flash
distance to within 10-15 feet and small groups and use bounce whenever
possible to soften and diffuse the light and help mitigate the inverse
square law of flash exposure.
If you have to do outdoor fill flash (difficult) the Nikon is the best
bet since it can sync at 1/90 second vs 1/60 on the OM-1. But that
still won't help much if you're trying to fill in bright sunshine. In
bright sun using Portra 160 you'd need to sync at 1/90 and f/22. Some
(maybe all) of your lenses might not be able to close down that much
which means that you'd have to use very slow film or add a neutral
density filter or both. Then you need a powerful flash to blast through
the small aperture, ND filter and slow film. Hard to do. Best keep
shots in the shade where you don't have to fight the sun and preferably
in full shade where you're not also fighting the sun in the background.
I think you can do fine with 35mm as your widest lens but it's best to
check the venue ahead of time. Sometimes you may be asked to shoot a
larger group shot and you just can't get far enough back to get everyone
in. 28mm may help in those cases but I'm leery of going shorter since
perspective problems can start to rear an ugly head. I've never done it
alone but assisted once in producing a 2 shot panorama of an orchestra
where we had a lens wide enough to cover the angle but the distortion
would have been unacceptable. We just had to tell everyone to hold
perfectly still for a minute and do a little PhotoShop touch-up.
Speaking of checking the venue ahead of time. This is part of what a
pro gets paid for. I've never shot a wedding or bar mitzvah in an
unfamiliar place without spending an hour or two investigating the place
ahead of time to make sure my equipment is going to be up to the task.
You need to figure out the "lay of the land" and check whether there
might be unforeseen obstacles. For myself I need to make sure that I
have adequate access to electrical power for studio flash units and that
the power was sufficient that it wouldn't all be monopolized by the DJ
should he get there before me. You also need to get to know the DJ if
there is one since he's often acting as master of ceremonies and keeps
things running on a schedule (his, not yours)... although as father of
the groom you could certainly have a more of a say in the execution
schedule of events that a photographer typically has... which is close
to none.
Go easy with the flash. Flash can greatly enhance photos if done
properly or totally blow them into oblivion if overdone. This is one
place where negative film is easier. It's much more forgiving of
overexposure than digital or slides.
I'm through rambling,
Chuck Norcutt
Jerry wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
>
> Hi, my name is Jerry and I'm going to be shooting my youngest son's
> wedding in July. This is going to be my very first wedding and I'm a
> little nervous about it. I'm seeking some advice, tips, suggestions,
> etc. First of all, this is not going to be a high cost wedding. The
> wedding is going to be in southern California, on a grassy ledge
> overlooking the beach, under a gazebo, sometime during the afternoon.
> Attendance has to be limited due to restrictions by the land owners. I
> suspect the head count to be between 50 and 75.
>
> Now, for equipment I don't own, nor can I afford to buy a DSLR. I still
> live in the Dark Ages. Cameras I have that I could use: 1) OM1n, 2)
> Nikon FG, 3) Pentax KX/KM, 4) Olympus XA2, and for a digital P&S, a
> Kodak DX6340. I know this is funny, but please don't laugh; at least not
> so loud that I can hear you. :)
>
> For flash, I have a Metz 45-CL4, and a Vivitar 283.
>
> For lenses I have: for the OM1n I have a 50, a 35-105 and a 75-150
> lenses. For the FG I have a 70 - 210 plus a 50. For the Pentax I only
> have 50mm lenses. Between now and the wedding I could, if need be, buy a
> lens or two.
>
> My first inclination is to use the OM1n, with Winder 2, and the Zuiko 35
> - 105 lens, with the Metz 45 flash for the outdoor shooting. With this
> setup and ASA 200 film, I can still reach out to 35 to 40 feet, which I
> *think* will be far enough. After the wedding, there will be a dinner
> indoors at a nearby restaurant. Will the 35-105, at 35mm, be suitable
> indoors, or should I get something wider? I will probably also use the
> Kodak for some of the indoor shots. For a cheap P&S, it takes very good
> photos. Is there any other low cost equipment that I absolutely must
> have?
>
> I do have a motor drive for the FG, but the only flash I can use with it
> is a Nikon SB-15. Not enough power, I'm afraid.
>
> So, there you have it. My mediocre equipment list and the task at hand.
> Please recommend a film to use, color and/or black & white. I will most
> likely be sending the film out to some lab (recommendations?) that can
> also produce CDs. Also, please advise as to what shots to be sure and
> not miss. So please advise away, I really want to get some good photos
> for these kids.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Jerry
>
>
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