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[OM] Re: Use FL-50 for weddings?

Subject: [OM] Re: Use FL-50 for weddings?
From: Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 10 May 2007 09:41:24 -0400
I can't answer your FL-50 and lens questions but I can address the SP 
Systems power pack.  I don't understand your comment that the SP Systems 
pack doesn't have a low power indicator.  The SP Systems pack (from a 
usage standpoint) is a true clone of the Quantum turbo battery.  You 
could easily use either one's user's manual for the other.  The Quantum 
turbo battery has four LED's to indicate battery power and the Turbo 
Systems pack has exactly the same.  There are three green LED's and one 
red one.  If all four LED's are on the battery is fully charged, 3 
lights = 3/4 charge, two lights = 1/2 charge and one light (red) = 1/4 
charge.  There are also charge and flash ready indicator lights.  Check 
the B&H listing here and enlarge the image.  You'll see the four red and 
green power level indicator lights right in the middle of the display 
panel.  The two red and green lights at left are the charge indicators.
<http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/294330-REG/SP_Systems_SPDCBPRC_Power_Pack_for_SP.html>
You can probably find a used turbo cable for your Vivitar 285HV on ebay 
for about $20.

As to shooting capacity, the SP Systems pack uses a Panasonic VHS 
camcorder type 12 volt lead acid battery which can be had for as little 
as $20.  That's why the SP Systems pack is a bit larger and heaver than 
a turbo battery.  Unlike the Turbo battery, which is not designed to be 
changed, the SP Systems battery can be swapped out in a matter of 
seconds (if you don't count the two minutes that will likely be required 
to work it out of its form fitting cloth case and velcro hold fast 
strip). :-)

I originally intended to buy a spare battery but I've only ever run the 
battery down completely one time and needed to do the last dozen or so 
shots on AA's as the party was winding down.  At that time I was 
shooting with the A1 and holding ISO 100 for noise control.  With the 5D 
I shoot all flash work at ISO 400 which saves on battery power and I've 
never run it out since.  I'm reasonably sure you could get 300 or more 
full power pops with either flash.

For your questions about depth of field you should download the depth of 
field calculator from Digital Light & Color.  If you're shooting with an 
E-thing set the resolution value to 60 lines/mm from the default of 30 
to account for the 2X crop factor vs. 35mm.
<http://dl-c.com/Temp/downloads/DOF%20Calculator/Default.htm>
Use the DOF calculator to play with a pseudo hyperfocal distance.  eg: 
What aperture to you need to keep everything in focus from, say, 5-30 
feet.  If you use manual flash and your lens is variable aperture make 
sure you use an aperture as small as or smaller than the aperture at the 
long end of your zoom.  You don't want the lens changing aperture on you 
as you zoom.  That's why I use constant aperture zooms for events.

Chuck Norcutt

r.burnette@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> I know we have had discussions about lighting on the list, but I
> don't recall anything about the FL-50 flash being used for weddings.
> So, I am wondering if anyone on the list has has used it for that. Is
> it up to the task? It is a pro flash, isn't it? (I have it and a
> Vivitar 285HV for backup.)
> 
> I realize that it will require use of a supplemental power pack. The
> Olympus SHV-1 runs about  $450. Is it up to the task? The Quantum
> power pack with cable would run about the same from B&H. The
> SP-Systems power pack that Chuck recommends would run about $200 with
> a Quantum cable. That seems like a good choice. I do wish that the SP
> unit had a low power indicator like the Quantum, but not $250 worth.
> 
> My plan is to use my E-500 until the E-510 comes out. I intend to use
> the ZD 50mm f2 and the 40-150mm f3.5-4.5 kit lenses. I think the
> 40-150mm lens is worthy of more respect than the pixel peepers give
> it. It's fine for prints up to 11X14. I don't plan to do any
> billboards. My hope is that the E-510 resolves some of the high ISO
> issues. If not, I'll shoot at a high ISO and trust to a program like
> Noise Ninja to clean it up. I also hope that the auto-focus is
> improved. I like to use auto-focus plus manual.
> 
> I am curious as to whether I can chose a given f-stop, such as f5.6
> and shoot most longer photos with that. Would f3.5 give adequate
> depth-of-field for close-ups and successfully blur the background? Or
> would it take f2.8 or f2?
> 
> I will appreciate any help and/or suggestions any one of you old
> wedding pros might have to offer.
> 
> Robert
> 
> 
> 
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