Without knowing exactly what you did, it is hard to say for sure.
Olympus Studio will convert the raw based on the camera settings.
However, you can change them before the conversion, but if you just
accept the default values, of course there can be differences, as
camera raw uses auto settings versus Studio using the camera settings.
I tend to turn the settings low, like sharpness, saturation, etc and do
Raw post processing in Photoshop. Here is an image converted using Oly
Studio with camera settings Contrast 0, sharpness -3, Saturation CS2,
adobe RGB. Shot was from E-1 while I was bouncing around in a boat.
http://www.zuik.net/E1/CS2_8013637.jpg - CS2 camera raw conversion
http://www.zuik.net/E1/Oly_Studio_8013637.jpg - Oly Studio conversion
http://www.zuik.net/E1/C1_LE_8013637.jpg - C1 LE conversion
Nothing was change in the settings, I used raw converters in default
setting, then used Imageready to convert them for Web, which converts
to sRGB output. The CS2 conversion shows the gamma to be off, in my
opinion, and why I tend to adjust the gamma more toward the Oly Studio
version.
Here are two kind of similar shots (and excuse to show my
daughters wedding). I was using the Canon 5D (very minor fill flash)
versus the E-1 my son used (mostly flash). Any way, this is probably a
bad comparison, but the only one I have to show the camera differences:
http://www.zuik.net/E1/5D_MG_0134.jpg - 5D
http://www.zuik.net/E1/E1_A227957.jpg - E1
http://www.zuik.net/E1/C1_LE_A227957.jpg - E1 using C1 LE
The first two converted in PS CS2 with no modifications. It seems to me
that if you have the raw data, you can pretty much adjust the
conversion to behave however you want. I'm really liking the raw
converter in CS2. It is reasonably fast, especially compared to Oly
Studio, and you can now queue up a bunch of conversions with customized
settings for each or custom setting applied to several similar photos.
With raw I don't think there are major differences between the cameras,
maybe the WB is better with the WB sensor on the E-1. Maybe the RGB
color filters on the image sensor are slightly different, but to my
eyes the differences are buried in the noise compared to the latitude
of adjustments one can tweak on the raw data.
I have tried Capture One LE. To me it is not as intuitive to use, but
has a lot of power. See the above for a conversions with C1. They don't
have C1 that works with the Canon 5D. For the money C1 is probably the
best deal. Studio is really slow in comparison to C1 or CS2, but gives
decent results. If I spent the time, I believe with C1 or CS2 I can get
even more optimal results than the default settings. Studio gives you
the least number of knobs to adjust.
The other major issue is how well the conversion tool displays the
preview image on your monitor. If it is off, it is hard to make proper
adjustments. Canon's ZoomBrowser EX is terrible. CS2 may shine best on
that point. C1 looks good from what I can tell, but there is no 5D
conversion yet so I'm not using it. With CS2, after you convert, you
can now do further editing, while with the other conversion tools, you
then have to re-open in the image editor if you need further editing.
I don't have any comparisons of in-camera jpeg conversions. The fact
that 12.8mp image from 5D raw is not that much bigger than a 5mp E-1
raw image makes it even more compelling to shoot raw with the 5D. And
the lower the camera noise the more latitude for adjusting the image.
My conclusion is that the biggest camera differences comes from the
photographer's skill at using light, flash, exposure, etc rather then
the camera itself, if shot using Raw mode. The latitude of adjustment
available with Raw images is wide. Noise becomes the limit. The WB
sensor may give the E-1 an edge if one is looking for an automated work
flow without custom adjustments (but we still have to nail that exposure).
Just comparing the conversion tools, C1 LE seems to give the best bang
for the buck if all you need is raw conversion, both in speed,
adjustments, and results. If the work flow requires editing, CS2
conversion may be the faster way ($150 upgrade), now that it has a
batch conversion mode. The trick is to get what you see on your monitor
to come out of your printer, that is the real holy grail.
Wayne
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