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[OM] Re: Figuring out depth of field with 4/3 adaptor

Subject: [OM] Re: Figuring out depth of field with 4/3 adaptor
From: Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:23:02 -0500
Walt said:
Ah, but now you've injected the notion of "greater enlargement."  That's 
a different ballgame.  Carried to its extreme, DOF becomes practically 
non-existant.  I can blow up a 6x9cm Provia 100F tranny enough so that 
anything not in the plane of exact prime focus starts to get soft and 
fuzzy.  DOF can cover up for only so much nearly in focus stuff, and it 
is strictly governed by the law of diminishing returns.

You have to live with what you start with, and if you have a little 
thing in the beginning, you can't expect to have a big thing in the end.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

Ah, you've figured out the answer but haven't realized it yet. DOF is a 
function not only of focal length, aperture and distance but also of 
final print magnification, viewing distance and resolving ability of the 
human eye.  Many folks don't realize this because they're used to 
looking up DOF in a table which makes no mention of magnification or of 
Circle of Confusion aka resolution or ability of the human eye.  The 
reason is that most DOF tables have built-in *assumptions* about final 
print magnification which is based on using 35mm film, magnifying 8 
times to make an 8x10 print and viewing the print from a distance of 10 
inches (normal reading distance) with an average human eye.

Fussing about with assumptions about such things as human visual acuity 
is a bit esoteric for most of us and don't really make much difference. 
So, some simplifying assumptions are necessary and are all rolled up in 
what's called Circle of Confusion or desired resolution on the film or 
sensor.

Film format or sensor size is something that can't be ignored, however. 
  As you posted earlier if you attach your medium or large format lens 
onto your beloved OM or E-1 the lens will deliver exactly the same 
resolution to film or sensor that it always did on the larger camera.
But, in order to make a print with the same angular view as the larger 
camera we'd have to use a shorter focal length lens AND magnify the 
final image more than we'd have to with the larger format.  It's the 
difference in final print magnfication that changes the equation.  In 
order to make a sharp looking 8x10 from a 35mm film frame I need to have 
greater resolution on the film.  In other words, I have to have a 
smaller Circle of Confusion if I'm going to blow it up more and still 
have it look sharp.

In the case of the E-1 with it 2X crop factor we have to blow images up 
about 16X to make an 8x10 print instead of 8X with the 35mm.  The image 
on the sensor has got to be sharper (smaller CoC) in order to look sharp 
on the final print.

Now, back to the DOF scale on the lens.  When using an OM lens on an E-1 
the 2X difference in final print resolution equates to a 2 stop 
difference in DOF for the same focal length.  If the OM lens is set at 
f/8 then add 2 stops and read the DOF from the scale for f/16.  For 
example refer to the calculator at <http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html>
Set the format for 35mm, focal length at 50mm, focus distance at 10 feet 
and aperture at f/8.  You'll find that the DOF is shown as 7.77 to 14 
feet.  Now change the format to E-1 (which is actually just cutting the 
CoC in half) and set the apeture to f/16.  You'll find that the DOF is 
exactly the same.

ps:
Brief explanation of Circle of Confusion:  Consider that the lens is 
focused on a tiny dot like the period at the end of a sentence.  The 
light passing through the lens forms a cone whose diameter is decreasing 
from the rear nodal point of the lens to a minimum at the point of best 
focus.  Hopefully this is where the film is located.  If the light beam 
could keep going it would start to diverge again and form a cone with 
increasing diamter beyond the film plane.

Now we ask if the dot is in focus if the film plane is, say, 1/10 mm 
ahead of or behind what we consider the point of best focus.  The answer 
is maybe.  The dot doesn't suddenly go out of focus but instead starts 
to grow fuzzier and fuzzier the futher away it is from the ideal.  But 
how far can it get from the ideal before it *looks* fuzzy.  Depends on 
how sharp our eyes are, how far away from the print they are and how 
large we've blown up the original image.  The "what's acceptable" is all 
rolled up in Circle of Confusion.  How fuzzy is fuzzy.

Sorry if I've repeated somebody's response.  I've been out of town for 
nearly a week and am trying to catch up on digests.

Chuck Norcutt


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