Directly from the instruction sheet for the 35-105/3.5~4.5:
"_Close_Focusing_:
To take close-up shots beyond the reach normally available by the focusing
ring: Unlock the close-focusing ring by pushing its switching button
inward (1) [callout to the close-focus lock button in the picture] and
slightly twisting the ring in the direction of the arrow (2) [callout to
the arrow on the close-focusing ring]. Rotate the ring until the subject
image in the viewfinder becomes crisp and clear while operating the
zoom/focusing ring.
* When the close-focusing mechanism is utilized, the distance scale,
depth-of-field scale, infrared index mark and focal-length scale cannot be
used."
The sequence in which I normally use this lens' close-focus:
(a) My starting point is composing the desired image by adjusting camera
position and focal length.
(b) Crank down to closest focus distance with the focusing ring.
(c) Unlock the close-focus ring and turn it.
(d) If focusing cannot be achieved, I'll start fussing with camera position
and focal length, gradually moving camera closer and reducing focal length.
Don't expect "true" macro capability from this lens (thank you Olympus for
not calling it a "macro" for which true macros are generally 1:4
magnification or higher). Highest magnification is at the 35mm end of the
focal length range, both with and without using the close-focus
ring. Contrary to what you might think, closest focus distance grows
faster than magnification as focal length increases; very common with zoom
lenses. Highest magnification is about 1:5 and is at the 35mm focal length
(with focus ring at closest focus and close-focus ring turned
completely). At the 105mm end of the focal length range, magnification is
about 1:7.1 (again, with focus ring at closest focus and close-up ring
turned completely).
You can very roughly estimate the desired magnification by approximating
the short side of a film frame as 1 inch and estimating or measuring the
size of the subject that will fill the frame along the short edge. For the
long edge, it requires a bit more mental math gymnastics, using 1.5 inches
as a rough dimension for the long side of the film frame.
Thus, 9 inches of subject for the long edge is roughly 1:6 magnification (9
/ 1.5) . . . and 7 inches of subject along the short edge is roughly 1:7
magnification. The latter would work at the 105mm focal length, or close
to it. The former would require reducing focal length to about mid-range
and moving the camera closer.
-- John Lind
At 08:29 AM 6/21/04, John Gruffydd wrote:
[snipped out quoted posting by Glenn Stauffer]
>Press the silver button on the "close-focus" ring and turn the ring
>clockwise (looking from the front of the camera) until it clicks into
>position. Focus by moving the zoom sleeve in and out.
>
>
>John Gruffydd (Mold, Wales, UK)
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