At 03:27 AM 8/15/2002, you wrote:
which program do you use for making the scanner profile?
At the moment, none. But I'm looking into that and would certainly
appreciate any knowledge anyone can share. So, just raw bits into
photoshop with my own curve adjustments, often done in the scanner
software. I plan to upgrade printer and scanner soon. At the moment,
the difference between printer output and monitor output don't match,
with much warmer and flatter prints than the screen. I have the Epson
1200 printer. My co-worker, working from the exact same scan,
un-adjusted, gets much better results on his 2000P, which tends to be
cooler to begin with. I've used all the standard monitor gamma and
color temperature adjustments (via photoshop and/or video card driver).
I'm starting to believe the printer profile is the most important.
(I've used both Adobe98 or sRGB color spaces.)
So, my impression is the nikon scanner with non-color managed output is
directly usable, especially if shadow detail is to be preserved. And
that it is just a matter of getting the monitor to printer profiles in
order. But I'm between a novice and an amateur at this. My
understanding is that the ICC profile is just a table mapping one set
of values to another. For the scanner, I prefer making my own curve
adjustments for that since I often also adjust the individual RGB gains
from their histograms. So in the end, it all requires that I be able to
see the result correctly on the monitor, and then be able to print what
I see. And of course there is the color space choice.... Maybe I'm just
digging a hole for myself?
I'm curious if anyone has experience with ColorVision's Spyder with
Photocal software? Or any calibration software?
Wayne
First, let me say that I have not done this because I do not print
that often. I was on a very good scanner list for a while and
calibration seems to be the holy, but unattainable, grail. The simple
solution of some highly respected people on the list is to use
Epson's own print software in the advanced settings to make a custom
setting that will best approximate what you see on the screen. You
should should try a number of images that are adjusted the way you
want them in your image software and then make the custom printer
settings that give you what you want for a standard image and save
the setting. Selecting that custom setting in the printer software in
the future should get you close to what you see on the screen most of
the time. No special software needed.
Second, you do realize that the 2000P uses Epson's most archival inks
and that they have a more subdued color range. You are never going
to get a good match to photons on an electronic display with any
printer, but the 2000P will be a little further away. You have to
think about creation of a beautiful print within the medium's
limitation with the original image as only the starting point.
--
Winsor Crosby
Long Beach, California
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