Bob
I look at the general spread of exposures in a scene (when I am
taking the time to do it) before deciding which are the highs and
which the lows. I then take a reading from the one I am most sure of
(!) before opening up 2 or 3 stops from the high or closing down 2 or
3 from the low.
That's with the OM2SP. With the OM4, I use spot on the mid tone, and
tones either side (just in case I have got it wrong) in Auto. I must
admit that I respect my 4 and my1N more than my 2SP, but the latter
really works very well.
I agree about exposures with the 1N though: I find it easy to
compensate, normally by opening up from the meter's measurement...
Chris
At 09:40 -0600 13/3/02, Robert R. Gries wrote:
snip...
I have also never understood the -2sp. Admittedly, I have never really
used it, but when fiddling with it in the odd camera shop, I found it to
be a bit clumsy. Some have speculated that it was a generational thing
(meaning that this camera came out when they started w/ Oly), but I find
that to do effective spot metering one needs the graph of the -3 and -4
series.
Let's say that you are looking at a scene with difficult lighting, and a
few areas look to be what you see as "neutral grey". Well, if you slide
the 2sp spot meter over these areas, you will have to remember what each
of those values were before deciding on the correct exposure. However,
if you had the -3 or -4, you would be able to see their relationship on
a graph (e.g. that part "A" is 2/3 stop brighter that part "B") and
would be able to make a better judgment from that.
It is all completely subjective, but I think that you will find that
most all the bodies will give you more that most newer cameras on the
market, and fine Zuiko glass to compliment.
Bob Gries
--
<|_:-)_|>
C M I Barker
Cambridgeshire, England.
?
+44 (0)7092 251126
mailto:imagopus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
... a nascent photo library.
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