On Thursday, February 14, 2002 at 9:20, Wayne Culberson
<olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote re "Re: [OM] Ambient and Flash Ratio Tu" saying:
> AG Schnozz wrote:
...
> > Focal-Plane shutters in our OMs limit us to nearly exlusively
> > using a Shutter Speed of 1/60. So scratch one "user-selectable"
> > setting off our list. 1/60 is a fixed, known quantity. We have
> > our start point. In lens-shutter cameras, we can start with the
> > aperture if we desire.
We can use slower speeds if we take the flash off the hot shoe & use an
ordinary, not TTL, sync cord.
...
> I am attending another wedding in about 2 weeks, and would like to grab
> a few shots if possible. Since I won't be the official photographer at
> this one (thankfully), I will be limited to, likely, non-straight-on
> shots, as I don't want to aggravate the real photographer, and try to
> stay out of the way, etc. So I've been trying to figure out what to take
> for equipment. I know the church is huge and maybe somewhat dark, and
> the background will not be close. I want to use Portra 400VC, get the
> background, but get some flash on the people, too.
I suggest one or more slave flashes lighting the background. Test effect
with a digital or polaroid. Or bring in some halogen lights. Colour temp
differences may not matter if no one knows what the background "should"
look like.
...
> Question: If I use this heretical rig for some pics, can I pick the auto
> setting on the flash that matches the f stop on the camera, and just let
> the flash do its thing? It occured to me yesterday, that NO, this might
> not work. In thinking about this, I'm trying to understand how these
> auto flashes could know distance. I think, well they obviously can't, so
> maybe they are dumping a flash according to the light they read through
> their sensor, and are going with a distance that fits most 'in the
> normal house' kind of shot?? How do you figure out the workable
> distances for the auto settings? I'd sooner not use the manual settings,
> as I'd like the flash to some of the work for me, and it has a longer
> recyle time (uses 4 AA's) at full dump.
Flash auto doesn't work so well because the background is so far away. The
subjects are overexposed. Better to do the calcs. Many flashes have 1/2
power (like T32) or other lesser manual settings.
> OM content: I wanted to put 2 t20's on my OM2s, but am waiting for
> cords to come, and may not have time to put it together and test it. I
> could put the 632t flash on the 2s, use manual mode, but I might be in
> trouble with the limiting 1/60 if the church is lighter than I'm
> anticipating.
I usually use bounced flash OTF & open up my aperture so the existing light
exposure is between 1/15 and 1/30. Or I use existing light and no flash.
Flash on camera is too harsh, so I reflect from an attached card or near
wall or ceiling.
You should investigate the church some days before & check out the
situation. If there's any shafts of pure sunlight at the wedding time,
you'll have to anticipate them too.
tOM
--------------- http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Olympus-Documentation
tOM Trottier, ICQ:57647974 http://abacurial.com
758 Albert St, Ottawa ON Canada K1R 7V8
+1 613 860-6633 fax:231-6115 N45.412 W75.714
"The moment one gives close attention to anything,
even a blade of grass, it becomes a mysterious,
awesome, indescribably magnificent world in itself --
Henry Miller, 1891-1980
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