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[OM] Buying on E-Bay

Subject: [OM] Buying on E-Bay
From: "Bill Stanke" <bstanke@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 11:27:36 -0700
Hi group:

I've been a subscriber to the list for about a month, but I haven't posted
anything before.  I notice that a number of members have had good (and bad!)
experiences buying gear though E-Bay.

I've purchased a fair amount of Oly gear on E-Bay, and have been happy with
most of my purchases.  I had some thoughts on ways that a buyer could
minimize the chances of being "burned" on a deal, FWIW:

Investigate the seller.  First check the seller's location.  Is this item
worth the hassle of an overseas transaction?What is the seller's E-Bay
rating? Are the ratings as a seller, or as a buyer?  Is this person a dealer
in photographic equipment, or is this a sideline?  If the seller's negative
feedback is much more than 10f total feedback, then I would stay away.  Be
wary of sellers who charge outrageous amounts for shipping.

The seller should write a good description of item offered for sale.  The
description should include good quality photos, taken from different angles.
I would beware of someone who is "selling the camera for a friend", or
"doesn't know much about cameras".  No photo - forget it!  Recognize that
there is a difference between puffery and legitimate sales talk.

PUFFERY.  "This camera is a rare beauty - a real creampuff"

LEGITIMATE. " I would conservatively rate this camera to be EX+, using KEH's
rating scale.  You have 14 days to return this item, if it is not as I have
described it."

Check the websites of reputable dealers of Olympus gear.  This will give you
guidance on a reasonable price to bid for an item.  I generally would not
bid more than 750f KEH's or Adorama's price for a given item.

Ask the seller some reasonable questions.  Visualize that you are standing
at the counter of a camera store, examining the merchandise. For example, if
you are buying a lens, ask the seller if it is single or multi-coated, if it
includes front and rear caps, etc.  If you are buying an OM-2S, ask if the
flash ready LED is green or red.  Ask if the camera includes both the
battery and the motor drive cover.  If the seller will not or cannot answer
your questions, assume the worst, and bid accordingly, if you bid at all.

You should always buy the best quality gear that you can afford.  An item
that is in good cosmetic condition is more likely to be a good performer
than a dirty beat-up example of the same item.  I wouldn't expect to buy an
item that was dirt cheap, and then expect to get it repaired for a small
amount.  For instance, don't buy a non-working OM-2S, thinking that fresh
batteries will cure a non-working shutter.  Assume that the camera has a bad
circuit board, is unrepairable, not a bargain at any price.  When in doubt,
don't bid.

Be willing to let an item go, if you feel uncomfortable about the seller or
the item being sold.  There are typically 100+ new listings every day on
E-Bay for Oly gear.  If you are interested in an OM-1n remember that there
are usually 12-15 available on any given day.  Cheerfully eliminate the ones
with non-working meters or de-silvering prisms.

You can build a listing of "good guys" on your favorites tab.  For instance,
I have had good experiences with Jack's Cameras, Adorama, and our own Tom S,
so I have added them to my "Favorite Sellers" list.

Cultivate other places to buy gear from, such as this list!  My methods tend
to eliminate private sellers from consideration.  You might miss out on a
great deal from a responsible private party by following this advice.
Statisticians talk about "Type 1" and "Type 2" errors.  It might be a "Type
2" error to eliminate small or casual sellers, but is a potential error that
I'm usually willing to make.

If you screw up and buy something "by accident" honor your bid anyway!

Remember that the stuff were buying could be up to thirty years old.  If
you're buying an original OM-1, you should budget the cost of a CLA and
battery conversion into your budget.  At the very least, assume that the
foam light seals have turned into goo or dust, and plan for their
replacement.

I have enjoyed reading the daily posts in the Digest.  I am also a member of
the Leica Historical Society of America (LHSA).  Quite frankly, most Leica
people aren't much fun!  I am amazed at the amount of Leica gear that is
offered for sale that is "new in box, complete with warranty cards, no film
ever run through camera".  I think it is a real shame to buy equipment of
that quality, and then never use it.  I bought my M-3 in 1974, and have used
it ever since.  Yes, there are some scuff marks on the baseplate, so what?
I bought the camera for $325 with a collapsible Summicron f2 lens and an
ever ready case.  It has cost me about $12.50/year, ignoring resale value!

Sorry that this was such a ramble!

Bill Stanke



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