Mickey stated:
> As for the fireplace, it has a bright brass framing that is
> highly offensive
> in the way of reflections. - A Thanksgiving day lesson...
> (we never use
> this fireplace anyway.) So I put dark material over it to prevent that
> problem. We mostly obscured it anyway, with 5 adults arrayed in front.
Good idea, you will need to CONTROL the light. Bright surfaces like that
can really wreak havoc when you aren't expecting them. It is often
difficult to see all those little reflecting surfaces like brass that look
like little flashlights all over the photo!
> I wonder how the 283 for bounce, and the T32 for direct would
> work. I am not sure how well the two automatic flash systems would play.
I would certainly go with the 283 in bounce and the T32 as the direct light.
Again, set the 283 on the yellow setting (if the 283 indicates F/4, set your
aperture to F/5.6, this will decrease the effect of the 283 bounce light and
give more emphasis to the T-32 direct light). If you have a VP-1 module for
the 283, dial it down to ~1/4 power. The problem you're having with the
light under the eyes is because not enough light is getting to the subject
except from the bounce light.
Their independent processes might be non productive. I guess I need to get
multiple T32s
> going. If I cable the camera to the flash on the BG2, will it trigger
> another flash if it's connected by a cable from the handle?
In my opinion, when using TTL flash, it is best to keep all flash units
operating in TTL mode. It can get messy when you have a TTL unit and an
AUTO unit operating at the same time. The AUTO (283) has no idea what the
TTL (T-32) is doing, and the TTL unit cannot control the AUTO. When all are
on TTL, you will get balanced light.
When using TTL and multi flashes controlled through the camera, the TOTAL
light will be the correct light. In THEORY, all units will be controlled so
that the TOTAL light is the correct light. This can vary, though, when all
flashes are not the same power. Believe it or not, the smaller flashes will
put out more light than the bigger ones. This is because the smaller
flashes reach peak power quicker and can't be stopped as quickly.
Again, remember that you do not need T-32's or T-20's. Sunpaks with the
OT-1D, Vivitar 3700, 4600 with DM/0, 5200, 5600 with PM/O and Metz with 321
adapter will function the same. By using a T20 Auto Connector, these flash
units can all connect to a T-series flash with the Olympus TTL cords. The
camera will never know the difference!
At this time,
> I'm not sure I see the need for more than 2 flashes, and
> could possibly
> eliminate the need for the Multiconnector. Would that work??
Yes, that will work. Also, you can easily use a slave trigger that will
allow you to get the 283 a further distance form the camera. Then you would
be cord free.
Brian Huber
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