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Re: [OM] In the studio (of sorts) -much too long response

Subject: Re: [OM] In the studio (of sorts) -much too long response
From: "Tom Scales" <tscales@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 05:45:42 -0500
All good suggestions that I'll try.  I just acquired (or will soon) two of
the T20 TTL adapters (thanks to a fellow list member), so I'll switch from
the T32 to the T20, which should help.  I'll also try moving one farther
away.  I'll probably also try boucing off the ceiling, both with and without
the diffusers.  I do know I'm just overpowering the situation with light.

I will also hunt for the suggested book.....learning is good.

Slowly, but surely.

Tom

> ====Charles, thanks for the feedback, as you've answered some of my
> questions.
> The bluish tint may very well be from the material.  Do you suggest a
> different material or color (beige?).=====
>
> Tom,
>
> Try simplifying things a bit.
> Use one T-32 bounced off the wall and one of the panels as a
> reflector on the other side.  This should work ok with one subject.
> With 2 people you will get one in the shadow side.
> Also try direct flash.  Sometimes diffusers are over rated.
> Try using the flash with diffuser right over the camera for 2 or more
> subjects.
> A reflector under the camera leaning against the tripod will get light
under
> the
> chin and in the eye sockets.
> You have double shadows.  One flash needs to be weaker than the other
> and you need to raise them up more.  Also move the subject to 6-8 feet
away
> from the background.
>
> ===The walls are white, and I'm not painting them, so I'll have to live
with
> it.=====
>
> How big is the room?  This could be used to your advantage.
>
> ===I'm confused for the need for a light meter.  I thought the whole point
> of
> the OM system and the TTL flash was the ability for the camera to manage
the
> flash units?  Does this not really work properly?  Does the fact that
there
> are multiple flashes cause a problem?=====
>
> TTL is not the exact science we would like it to be.
> It sees everything in the frame and tries to average to grey.
> Convenient at times but not for studios.
> You can improve the results though by filling the frame tighter.
> An incident flash meter measures the light from the source to the distance
> of the subject so it is balanced to the film speed not the subject
> reflectance.
>
> ====My biggest problem is the overexposure.  I can compensate with the ASA
> dial
> if necessary, since it's pretty consistent, but I shouldn't have to.=====
>
> Assuming that all your settings were OK to start with, the flash quencher
> may not be able to react fast enough.  Too much power for the distance and
f
> stop.
>
>
> Some other suggestions are to move one flash twice as far away and to the
> front
> or use only one unit in front and one as a back light (best results under
> the circumstances).
>
> I have tested a T-32 in a 30" umbrella directly over the camera on TTL and
> checked with a flash meter.  It was right on.
> A 30" umbrella and a thingy to mount the flash and umbrella
> on a cheapo light stand is really quite inexpensive.  Look in the B&H ads.
> The low cost Wein flash meters are under $100 new.
> I bought 2 used for $35 each.  They work fine just basic.
>
> A thorough book on the subject is "The Portrait" a Kodak publication.
> It is for professional studio work but the principles are the same.
> Cat # E102 1443.  Publication 0-24
>
> Oh BTW, change labs!
> A one hour should do better than you got.
>
> Charlie
>


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