It also works well for normal indoor flash according to guide number
(but I don't recommend direct flash) or in manual or auto mode using
bounce (with or without reflectors or diffusers) and chimping.
Examples: Try an auto mode shot. It will pretty much be correct
provided the target isn't too far away. If it's not right on the
histogram adjust the exposure on the camera with the aperture or on the
flash with the ISO slider. Do pretty much the same in manual mode
except that your only control is aperture or the power level control.
If you have the luxury of setting up ahead of time you can put the
camera on a tripod and put the flash either on the camera or on a
separate light stand (especially if you're using more than one flash).
Then you can do your chimping and adjustments before the subjects
arrive. With two or more units you can put them in auto mode and adjust
total and relative exposure between main and fill lights using the ISO
sliders. Set the main light on a light stand about 45 degrees to one
side of the subjects and put the fill light on the camera. If you set
the ISO slider on the fill light to double that on the main light you'll
get a good shadow fill. Any kind of reflectors or diffusers will
improve and soften the light.
Try it. It's not hard. You can use radio slaves or even T-connectors
and cables if you have them. No other OM gear required.
Chuck Norcutt
On 7/27/2013 12:07 PM, Chris Barker wrote:
> Thanks for reminding me of the possible use for my T-32, Chuck.
>
> Chris
>
> On 27 Jul 2013, at 16:26, Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>> The T-32 is still a powerful and very fine flash in manual and auto
>> modes on any camera with a hot shoe. In fact, I'll wager it's at least
>> as good as TTL at close range of about 6 ft. I've been using it fairly
>> regularly as a fill-flash on both the 5D and E-M5 and have also used it
>> in the past on the Minolta A1. For fill work I use it set for a light
>> fill to avoid blown highlights. I set it 2 stops down from the camera.
>
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