As long as you're willing to accept wood as the mounting support (the
interior 2x6? studs) why take the interior wall? You don't have to go
through the sheetrock all the way to the concrete if using the outside
wall. The studs that are fastened to that concrete wall should be far
more stable than interior studs. They're probably fastened to the wall
with concrete nails or construction cement. Bolt your enlarger mounting
plate to the sheetrock through to two adjacent studs that are fastened
to the concrete wall. If the mounting plate itself doesn't have a
convenient 16" or 24" hole pattern than bolt another plate across the
studs and then bolt the mounting plate to that one.
Either plan requires that you rest on sheetrock resting on studs.
Choose the studs located on the outside concrete wall as the more stable
support.
Chuck Norcutt
On 1/4/2013 10:37 AM, Ken Norton wrote:
>> Never had an enlarger that big, but seems like all the darkroom pictures
>> I've seen of the greats show wall-mounted enlargers. I realize some of those
>> were 8x10, but still. I'd think wall would be the way to go if for no other
>> reason than ease of access to controls. The floor base might serve the same
>> purpose, but for some reason things tend to get dirtier and dustier the
>> closer they get to the floor. <g>
>
> I wouldn't mount it to the floor! I'm 6' 4", that wouldn't be very fun. :)
>
> The wall mounts make a lot of sense when the wall is concrete. In
> fact, that was the original installation of these enlargers--they were
> bolted through a concrete block wall. But in my case, the concrete
> wall would be the outside basement wall and I would also have to go
> through drywall, insulation and who knows what else. I'm scared to
> find out what magic bits they built into those walls to make the place
> energy efficient. Instead, I'd be going through an interior wall which
> happens to be a supporting wall for the upper floor. I'm thinking of
> taking 2x6 board and mounting it to the wall and then securing the
> enlarger mounting plate to that. If I make the board long enough and
> have it glued and screwed all the way up and down to the studs
> (through the drywall), I'll have a very solid foundation to work from.
> Most of the studs in this wall are doubled up for additional strength.
>
> If I go with the wall mounting as described, I would lower it just a
> little bit to allow for maximum ceiling clearance so I don't have to
> compromise the placement of the hung ceiling. But that would screw up
> my work surface... Another challenge.
>
> So, my idea of the 2x6" mounting board? What do you think?
>
> --
> Ken Norton
> ken@xxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.zone-10.com
>
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