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Re: [OM] [OT] Home automation/security questions

Subject: Re: [OM] [OT] Home automation/security questions
From: Scott Gomez <sgomez.baja@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 21:52:21 -0700
Perhaps you shouldn't. The major difference between the two, as far as I
could see, is in the programming flexibility and capacity. More money: more
flexibility and capacity. I might have started with a smartlinc had it been
available a few years ago when I first got interested in this stuff.

ISY has some features I don't believe you'll find at all in the smartlinc.
1) User-defined variables 2) the ability to base actions on time before or
after sunrise/sunset 3) the ability to "re-use" programs: one program can
call another in the ISY 4) many more conditions available for use in
programming. 5) Full integration with ELK security systems. 6) Downloadable
add-on modules (extra cost) that add capabilities.

A simple example: my ISY at the house in Mexico turns on porch lights based
on "sunset + 15 minutes" rather than simply "at sunset". More complex: The
sprinklers for the plantings there turn on for a frequency and duration
using different programs that I enable/disable based on time of year, and
whether the sprinklers are in front of the house (shaded, cool, eastern
exposure) or the back (very sunny, hot, western exposure).

If you don't feel you'll need those sorts of capabilities then the
smartlinc may well be sufficient. Its manual is on line at smarthome.com,
I'd suggest looking through it to see if it'll meet your needs. It's a heck
of a lot less expensive. You'll find the manual for the 99i/994i series on
line at universal-devices.com.

By the way, the folks at UD have proved to be extremely patient, helpful,
friendly and quite responsive over the contacts I've had with them. For me,
that's been a big plus, as initially I had quite a lot of questions, and a
few years back, there wasn't that much on-line about this stuff. Can't say
one way or the other with the smarthome support folks, as I've never had to
use them, since all I've done is purchase devices there.

Phases: You'll need probably a minimum of two dual-band devices to handle
the phases in the house... depending on how many Insteon devices you plan
to employ. Quite easily handled now, as so many devices include dual-band
capability. Or bridge the phases as Moose mentioned.


On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:58 PM, Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> wrote:

> First question is why should I spend $300 for an ISY controller rather
> than $100 for a simple Smartlink controller?
>
> Chuck Norcut
>
>
> On 8/9/2012 9:05 PM, Scott Gomez wrote:
> > Funny you should ask this now. I've just received my new ISY-994i,
> Insteon
> > thermostat, and PowerLinc Modem in the mail 2 days ago. Now working on
> > programming to accomplish what I want, which is, here in sunny
> > too-hot-at-the-moment southern California, using inputs from the "flex
> you
> > power" alerts that the ISY is capable of reading to tell the thermostat
> to
> > turn off the air conditioning when a "reduce use" alert is called. Thus
> > saving me the per hour double-cost billing now possible thanks to smart
> > meters.
> >
> > 'Tis my second ISY. The other is in our other home in Mexico, where it's
> > served ably controlling all sorts of goodies.
> >
> > So ask away, Chuck. I don't know a lot yet (my use has been relatively
> > unsophisticated) but I'm learnin'.
> >
> > ---
> > Scott Gomez
> >
> > On Wed, Aug 8, 2012 at 6:53 AM, Chuck Norcutt <
> chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> wrote:
> >
> >> Sorry for breaking the flurry of on-topic OM-D traffic but I have some
> >> home automation/security questions for which I know someone here has the
> >> answers.
> >>
> >> I have two (I think modest) goals I'd like to achieve for when I leave
> >> the house in the winter for warmer climes.
> >>
> >> 1) Right now I have a simple set of timers that turn a few lights on and
> >> off that simulate the activity in the house when it's occupied.  Some of
> >> these timers have a battery backup so they can survive power outages.
> >> However, by the time I return in the spring, sunset and sunrise are
> >> radically different than when I left.  Also, daylight savings time has
> >> gone into effect further throwing the timers off.  Also, one of the
> >> lights I'd like to control (but don't now) is operated by a wall switch
> >> where control is not amenable to a simple plug-in timer.
> >>
> >> I think I can solve these lighting problems with fairly simple Insteon,
> >> Z-Wave (or similar) devices.  But I don't know all the ins/outs of these
> >> things and what's best or worse.  Nor do I completely understand the
> >> need for or how to completely cover communicating over both phases of
> >> the AC power lines of the house.  That leads to a question of should I
> >> use radio transmission devices only?
> >>
> >> Whatever the solution here it probably gets complicated (cost wise) by
> >> goal #2...
> >>
> >> 2) When I leave the house for the winter I have the plumbing winterized
> >> with anti-freeze by a plumber right after I leave and de-winterized just
> >> before I return.  I also have the town turn my water off outside the
> >> house just in case my own inside shut-off valve should start leaking.
> >> The town turns the water off for free but the winterizing/de-winterizing
> >> costs me $200/year.  What I'd like to do is get rid of the precautionary
> >> anti-freeze requirement for the plumbing.  But that requires that I keep
> >> a close watch on the temperature of the house in the event the furnace
> >> should fail.  Right now I have a simple temperature sensor that turns on
> >> a red light in the window to warn the neighbors if the temperature drops
> >> to 40F.  But if they don't notice or don't respond the antifreeze in the
> >> pipes will protect the plumbing.  With no anti-freeze in the pipes I
> >> don't dare count on the neighbors noticing that all is not well with the
> >> furnace.
> >>
> >> If I want to spend lots of money and use a smartphone (not!) I can get
> >> instant alerts via smartphone on some systems.  But I don't want to go
> >> there.  I normally have my internet/cable/phone shut off when I'm gone
> >> but can leave internet only communications running for about the same
> >> amount of money that it costs me for winterizing/de-winterizing.  That
> >> allows for a freeze/temperature sensor communicate with me via the net
> >> but I don't know exactly how to do that at modest cost.  A warning
> >> e-mail would be best but even having to log-on daily for a status check
> >> would be OK if it's the only way to do it cheaply.
> >>
> >> These are the functions I'm after.  The questions are how to do it
> >> cheaply but also reliably.  If there's no built-in freeze protection the
> >> system has to work.  Probably best to take the answers to this off-list.
> >>
> >> Thanks much,
> >> Chuck Norcutt
> >> --
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> _________________________________________________________________
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