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Re: [OM] Light meter

Subject: Re: [OM] Light meter
From: Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2011 21:39:33 -0700
On 9/7/2011 3:42 PM, Chris Trask wrote:
> Looks like I have a lot of practice and evaluation to do once the weather 
> cools down some and I can spend a few hours 
> outdoors. For now, we have already broken the record for the number of days 
> at 110º or higher, and we may tack on 
> another one tomorrow. Not a good time to be outdoors for any length of time. 
> So, it's back to basics time once again. 
> I will satisfy my need to improve my techniques by first reading chapter 3 
> ("Exposure") of Adams volume 2 ("The 
> Negative"). Chris 

I've been reading this thread with some bemusement.

1. You are talking about simple, old, battery free, selenium meters.

2. Chuck (and others?) are talking about how to most effectively use the 
exposure tools built into the cameras.

3. Ken is talking about equipment so complex and sophisticated that even he 
doesn't understand it all.

1. Selenium meters are wonderful, as long as it doesn't get too dark for them. 
That's the big weakness with contemporary 
high ISO capability.

1. As you say, the first meter I ever used, the GE PR-1, is an simple, well 
designed tool that gets the job done. I was 
amazed when I later used some other meters that they didn't trap the needle, I 
had to pay attention to a reading and 
transfer it to a dial. There is also an incident light attachment for the PR-1, 
but probably pretty rare, although I 
have one.

The GE PR-2 is much like the PR-1. The process is slightly different, but 
equally easy. I'm not sure where mine is at 
the moment, and I don't remember if the same incident light attachment fits, 
although I think it does.

The Weston Master V was the best around in it's time. (Mine is a Model 748.) I 
find it less intuitive and simple to use 
than the GEs. Even ergonomically, pointing it is more awkward. The bigger 
selenium cell lets it handle lower light, but 
not a lot.

It does offer a choice on meter trapping. Put a thumbnail in the slot on the 
button on the right side. Turn left and let 
it pop out, and it acts as a read and trap button. Turn to the right and push 
in, and it lets the meter needle run free.

The Invercone incident 'dome' is supposed to be excellent. I think I may have a 
spare somewhere around here.

2. I'm largely an adherent of the Chuck school. Learn your camera's histograms 
and flashing out of range indications on 
the LCD and bracket where it's important.

3. There's no way I'd ever remember in the field how to do all the stuff on 
those fancy meters Ken talks about - even if 
I ever learned them all in the first place. It's all just overkill - and 
overprice - to me. I'm sure there must be 
situations where they would be better than simple metering and chimping, but 
other than flash, which I don't do, I'm 
hard pressed to think of when.

4. Before considering a LunaPro, check out how big it is - a monster. Also at 
least early ones (all?) used the 1.35v 
mercury batteries. Gossen sells an adapter, but it's kinda pricy.

I think the Gossen Super Pilot might be about the ideal meter for someone like 
me, reasonable size and price, good low 
light sensitivity and sliding incident light dome. The fly in the ointment is 
the 1.35v battery. Unfortunately, Gossen's 
otherwise excellent battery compartment design isn't compatible with the MR9 
adapters. One must either recalibrate for 
1.5v alkaline (Instructions on the web.), pop for the expensive Gossen adapter, 
install a shotsky diode oneself, or 
perhaps devise a mask of some sort for the MR9. No trap needle or off switch 
for the battery.

5. Have you considered trying incident light metering? It's not for everybody, 
but the situations and difficulties you 
describe seem to me ideal for incident measurement.

En Lightened Moose
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