Moose:
Thanks for that link. Something that I'll digest before the next course.
I've found a copy locally of the Kodak Master Photo Guide, which I
should be picking up tomorrow.
I'm starting to think that at the light levels expected, combined with
the latitude of the film and RF, that a ballpark light reading will be
fine, when combined with bracketing.
Martin
-----Original Message-----
From: Moose [mailto:olymoose@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2011 3:11 PM
To: Olympus Camera Discussion
Subject: Re: [OM] Long exposures with an OM2N - advice needed
On 5/16/2011 9:57 AM, Chuck Norcutt wrote:
> I'd still recommend skipping the meter unless you want it for other
applications... just don't try to use it here. Also, forget auto mode
and switch to "B" and your watch.
I agree with Chuck. I suggest spending some quality time with Fred
Parker's "Ultimate Exposure Computer". It's all worth reading, and I
remember to do so every so often.
<http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm#top>
Of particular interest to your problem, giving far more info on
practical very low light EV values than I've seen elsewhere, is the
"Exposure Value Chart"
<http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm#Light%20Intensity%20Chart>
So, for example, "Night, away from city lights, subject under crescent
moon." is EV -5
If you have a light meter with EV values on it, you may simply set the
film speed and aperture for its lowest setting, read the EV and double
the time for each step down to EV -5.
Or you can work with his "Exposure Factor Relationship Chart"
<http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm#EXPOSURE%20FACTOR%20RELATIONSHIP%
20CHART%20B>
It doesn't go down quite to where you may be going going, but the
exposure math is simple. His chart says -5 EV is 1 min, f5.6, ISO 1600,
which is 8 min @ ISO 200
You'll need to add your own reciprocity failure adjustments from the
Portra data sheet.
On 5/16/2011 10:07 AM, Ken Norton wrote:
> I'm also in favor of the Kodak reference book. Can't remember what
mine is called, Professional PhotoGuide or something like that. In it is
a table, and circular calculator for determining exposures for various
film speeds under various available-darkness photographs. It even brings
in the subject of reciprocity failure.
I have the Kodak Master Photo Guide. Its "Existing Light Exposure Dial"
doesn't go beyond ISO 400, 6 sec. @ f16 for "Floodlighted Buildings,
Fountains, Monuments."
The above guide is more useful, as far as I can see.
No Light Moose
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