You and the camera did very well but I still would have dragged the
shutter. It would have improved the majority of the shots and not made
much difference to others.
Chuck Norcutt
Moose wrote:
> Let me set the stage ...
>
> The costume party was a surprise. We were taken up to the amazing
> costume room at the top of the building, picked or made up our costumes
> and went back down to a dance party with rock and soul oldies, wine and
> snacks.
>
> I seemed to be the only one with a decent camera at hand, and felt the
> event should be immortalized. However, I wasn't willing to miss
> participation. So I wandered back and forth between dancing, chatting,
> drinking and grabbing the camera for a few shots. The overhead shots
> were taken by climbing up on a chair, portraits by stopping folks for a
> moment and flashing them, etc. I tried some closer up dancing shots, but
> they were mostly unsuccessful.
>
> Thoughts of dragging shutters, second curtain and so forth were far from
> my mind. I probably should have thought that the way I held the camera
> for portraits format portraits was putting the flash at the bottom of
> the camera. Shooting from below eye level was good for perspective and
> keeping eyeglass reflections down, but had some troublesome, eerie, lit
> from below effects in a few shots, mostly corrected in post.
>
> Dragging the shutter would have worked for some shots, but not for many,
> as they included folks dancing the jitterbug and other less well
> defined :-) dances with quick movements. I don't think even 1/30 would
> have avoided some blur ghosts.
>
> Manual? Not under those circumstances! Everybody in constant motion, no
> idea from shot to shot the distance to subjects. In fact, often many
> subjects at different distances in the same shot. It's amazing what can
> be done in post to match exposures for different distances. The person
> right in front of the flash and the people a dozen feet away can be
> balanced.
>
> I had great fun at the party, got a lot of good snaps (If I say so
> myself.) for the participants AND I learned a whole lot about my new
> camera in the bargain.
>
> I've posted more images, including at least one of the elusive Moose.
> Can you find him?
> <http://galleries.moosemystic.net/MooseFoto/index.php?gallery=FeastOfFools>
> (Bob's off-line and Chuck and Mike are not eligible.)
>
> Some pretty cool costumes anyway.
>
> Moose
>
> Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>> This shot is taken at 28mm equivalent at 1/60. As I just commented on
>> Nathan's party pics, you could have gotten much better background
>> lighting by "dragging the shutter". I'm sure you could have gotten away
>> with 1/15 or maybe even slower. That would be a two stop brightening of
>> the background without affecting the flash exposure.
>>
>> I don't know what modes the G11 has that would allow that but shooting
>> flash in manual mode is a piece of cake with digital. For this dark
>> venue try setting the shutter at 1/15 and then take a couple of test
>> pics by varying the aperture until you get what looks good. With a
>> little practice you can nail it within one or two test shots.
>>
>> I seem to to recall that I gave you this same lesson with regards to the
>> 5D and 540-EZ flash. :-)
>>
>> Chuck Norcutt
>>
>>
>> Moose wrote:
>>
>>
>>> So why flash with ISO 3200? Well, I should have lowered the ISO between
>>> shots, but I was trying not to fall off the folding chair I was standing
>>> on, avoid kicking over my wine and catch shots of dancing people. The
>>> answer is in some other shots, same time and place. Neither of these
>>> will make the gallery cut, but they show the dramatic difference in
>>> useful flash reach at ISO 3200 vs. 800. Greater sensitivity allows both
>>> ambient light and flash lighting to vastly extend the ramge to cover the
>>> whole room, rather than just what's up close. They are JPEGs right out
>>> of the camera, simply downsampled.
>>> <http://galleries.moosemystic.net/MooseFoto/index.php?gallery=Tech/G11/ISO-FlashRange>
>>>
>
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