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Re: [OM] T-20 safe on E?

Subject: Re: [OM] T-20 safe on E?
From: Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 09:53:03 -0500
I meant to add that you may have better luck with the f/8 auto range if 
you raise the ISO to 400 on both camera and flash.

Dr. Flash

Chuck Norcutt wrote:
> Uh, oh!  I just realized (checking the eSIF because I've never owned 
> one) that the T20 doesn't have a bounce head.  Not good.  Best used in a 
> bounce grip then but auto mode can't be used on the T20 or T32 because 
> the sensor moves with the flash.  Without a bounce grip or some sort of 
> improvised bounce reflector you're limited to direct flash.  With the 
> T20 and T32's low profiles in the hot shoe you're into big time red-eye.
> The T20's coverage angle is designed for a maximum angle of coverage 
> equal to a 35mm lens on an OM.  So set your E420's focal length to no 
> less than 1/2 of that or about 17mm.  Set the shutter speed to about 
> 1/15 second, ISO to 100 and the aperture according to the shooting 
> distance read from the calculator panel.  Pick a shooting distance that 
> you can likely maintain in the confines of a room in the house... say 8 
> feet.  The T20's guide number is fixed at 66 feet.  Dividing 66 by 8 
> (what the calculator panel is doing) yields an aperture of 8.25... let's 
> call if f/9 to the nearest third stop.
> Now test the exposure.  Drape something white like a shirt or towel over 
> the back of a chair.  Stand 8 feet away and take a test shot.  Examine 
> the exposure for blown highlights.  Now adjust for the "real" guide 
> number.  Open the aperture a stop or so until you do see blown 
> highlights and then back off a bit.  Experiment with "dragging the 
> shutter"... using slower shutter speeds to collect more ambient light. 
> You may be able to go down to about 1/4 second if there's no fast 
> subject movement.  Recheck for blown highlights after changing the 
> shutter speed.  Also make sure that the shutter speed and aperture in 
> use are not sufficient for an exposure without assistance from the 
> flash.  Perhaps that was your overexposure problem.  If the ambient is 
> sufficient for a good or near good exposure adding the flash will 
> definitely result in overexposure.
> But my real advice is use a different flash, one with a bounce head.
> Dr. Flash
> AS wrote:
>> I set the camera in manual??! That was the first time I have ever
>> used a T-20 for anything. I am not familiar with the ins and outs of
>> that flash. Give me some time!
>> --- On Thu, 12/25/08, Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> wrote:
>>> From: Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re:
>>> [OM] T-20 safe on E? To: "Olympus Camera Discussion"
>>> <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: Thursday, December 25, 2008,
>>> 12:06 AM I think setting to manual overexposes the photo if the 
>>> photographer hasn't set the camera properly.  :-)
>>> Dr. Flash
>>> AS wrote:
>>>> T-20 seems to work fairly well with the E-420.
>>> Although I prefer the
>>>> T-32. Photographing with the T-20 is a little awkward.
>>> Works best in
>>>> the first auto setting. Setting to manual completely
>>> over-exposes the
>>>> photo.
>>>> E-420 handles OK for a little bugger. I think the
>>> E-500 had better
>>>> feel and build. The 14-42 focuses slowly.
>>>> Interesting tip that I found on a website:
>>>> "Tip: Although the E-420 has three “official”
>>> autofocus points,
>>>> here’s a trick that will extend their number and
>>> help you in
>>>> fast-changing backlit situations: With Live View and
>>> Imager AF
>>>> active, turn on the camera’s Face Detection mode to
>>> extend the AF
>>>> area to eleven points and then turn on Shadow
>>> Adjustment. With this
>>>> particular combination of settings, the camera will
>>> track and lock
>>>> focus on the subject, and shadow adjustment will
>>> automatically extend
>>>> the range of visible detail in the shadow areas."
>>> -- 
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