- The point of the TOPE is to use OM gear for the shot.
Why bother with using film at all if shooting with a digital
camera to figure out how to shoot with a film camera?
Just use the digital camera. -
My commenting on the digital-chimp-procedure.
-- If you want to expose the film to look like the scene:
The OM-4 will expose for grey. The zone system of exposure
should then be a guide to adjust compensation for the shot
and place background where you want taking into account the
film reciprocity failure. I have found Provia 100F to have pretty
good reciprocity failure for night shots, being almost flat out to
2 minutes. At long exposure, it is better than 400F.
Many print films have color shift with reciprocity failure.
If using the chimp-meter procedure and using print film,
compensate for reciprocity failure.
To estimate the correct exposure with OM-4 will depend on
the scene. A typical night shot of a city on the horizon will
probably want 2 stops under exposure, but one with a lot
of light sources, maybe no compensation. This is *if* you
want the film to look like the scene.
So the answer is, yes, the camera will tend to make it look
close to a daylight shot if the illumination is relatively uniform,
hence give it approximately 2 stop under-exposure.
-- Better approach if using post processing:
The other approach is to center exposure range to match the
film range, and capture the most dynamic range, then
adjust the result with levels and curves later. For most
scenes, this means use OM-4t auto with no compensation.
Here is an example of how the exposure will lighten the image.
The histogram show good exposure. Shot with OM-4t, Provia
100F, not sure on exposure time (30 sec?) but you can see
the cloud movement. OM-4t on auto, no compensation used.
http://tinyurl.com/6nqkhn
Since all the exposure info is there, adjust the midpoint in levels
brings the image back closer to what the scene actually looked like:
http://tinyurl.com/5sdvjj - Virgin Gorda, 2003
And actually the scene is probably darker, but the eyes also change,
so there is a lot of interpretation with night shots. To me the ability
of the camera to see things I cannot is what is best about night shots.
It can bring out color our eyes loose in low light.
WayneS
At 07:24 AM 11/10/2008, you wrote:
>I'm willing to allow the camera to do it's thing if I know how it's
>likely to behave but for that you didn't answer my question. Will I get
>a night scene after a second or two or will I get a 30 second exposure
>that looks close to a daylight shot?
>
>Chuck Norcutt
>
>WayneS wrote:
>> At 03:52 PM 11/9/2008, you wrote:
>>> Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>>>> I think I took my last night shot (at least that I can remember)
>>>> in 1964..... If I take an OM-4 out on a night shooting task
>>>> where the only light is tail lights, head lights, building
>>>> interior lights, etc. will the automode on the OM-4 be able to
>>>> figure that out? Will I get a night scene after a second or two
>>>> or will I get a 30 second exposure that looks close to a daylight
>>>> shot?
>>>>
>>> Shoot with 5D. Chimp Repeat as necessary. Note exposure details.
>>> Reproduce exposure with OM gear. Congratulate self on ownership of
>>> such an expensive and sophisticated exposure meter. :-)
>>
>> Sounds like a cop out to me. One of the main reasons I ever picked up
>> an OM camera was the low light metering. The OM-2 going down to
>> -6EV. If you can't figure out how to use that feature you might as
>> well be shooting with any old manual exposure camera, why use the OM
>> in the first place?? The OM-4 can meter to -5EV or up to 4 minutes of
>> auto-exposure. Just check the reciprocity of the film being used and
>> use the OM camera at its best.
>>
>> I have taken many a low light shot with the OM and I would trust it
>> first over the digital camera meter. It was that reason I abandon the
>> E-1, it seem Olympus gave up on the style of photography I like most.
>> The E-1 being really bad with noise.
>>
>> Also remember that a 2 minute exposure is only 1 stop more than a 1
>> minute exposure, there is some latitude to work with. But I suggest
>> trusting the auto exposure on the OM camera itself.
>>
>> WayneS
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