The first time I cleaned my sensor I used a Rocket blower followed by
the "Copperhill Method" which uses Pec-Pads and Eclipse (methanol). I
wrapped the Pec-Pads around a cut down rubber spatula which I made about
20mm wide. That meant that I'd have to do two passes since 20mm won't
completely cover the sensor. But I think it also makes it easier to get
inside the mirror box without scraping the sides and it's also easier to
get into the corners.
Now, having said that, I should also say that I'll not use that method
again unless absolutely necessary to remove some welded on dust.
Despite making two passes with a clean Pec-Pad on each pass I ended up
with 3 times as much dust on the sensor as I started with. I had to
repeat the process 3 or 4 times before the sensor was clean and even
then it wasn't perfect. There were still a few small specs left but
they didn't show up in normal shooting so I just left them.
I also stopped using the Pec-Pads and Eclipse for a while since there
was a bit of a scare when internet rumors said that Eclipse would damage
the coatings on the filter that covers the sensor on the 5D. As it
turned out there are some cameras which use a filter with tin oxide
coatings which can supposedly be damaged by methanol but the 5D is not
among them. Photographic Solutions (makers of Pec-Pads and Eclipse) now
sells Eclipse 2 (ethanol) for use on cameras with tin oxide coatings.
Their web site lists which solution to use for each camera
<http://www.photographicsolutions.com/cameras_bymfg.html> The latest
Canon cameras (400D, 40D, 1DMkIII) do have tin oxide coatings so I
suspect that the 5D's follow-on will have it too.
For the next cleaning I used a simple cosmetic mask brush from ebay as
outlined in the following paper. It was cheap and worked perfectly. I
actually use two such brushes, also about 15mm wide. I make one pass
down one side of the sensor then turn the brush over and retrace on the
same side in the opposite direction. Then I use the second brush and do
the same on the opposite side of the sensor. I could use a single brush
but they came as a pair and using both keeps me from having to clean the
brush again (by rapping against a table knife blade) between passes.
Then I clean both brushes using the knife blade and store them in a
small plastic bag. This is the poor man's "Sensor Brush" method without
all the hoopla about static charges on the brush, etc, etc. It works
just as well and cost under $10 (with shipping) for my pair of brushes
vs. perhaps $100 for the Sensor Brush gear. It's all outlined in the
paper here:
<http://www.prime-junta.net/pont/How_to/a_Brush_Your_Sensor/a_Brush_Your_Sensor.pdf>
One word of caution. Even if you use cosmetic mask brushes as I did
instead of more readily available artist's brushes (often covered with
size) you should clean them ahead of use and subject them to the "filter
test" as described by the author. My mask brushes were packaged in
cellophane wrappers and looked perfectly clean to my eye. But when I
subjected them to the "filter test" it was clear that they were covered
with a very fine white powder left over from the manufacturing process.
However a brisk wash in a bit of liquid soap solution and lots of
rinsing cleaned them up quite well and they passed the "filter test"
then with flying colors.
I now have a "SensorKlear" pen from Lens Pen which I am told works very
well but I've had it for many months and haven't even tried it yet. I
do need to clean the sensor again soon so I'll try my brushes again and
the SensorKlear only if that doesn't work. The SensorKlear has a
triangular shape pointed tip and looks like it might be good for corners
and isolated spots.
<http://www.lenspen.com/?cPath=1&products_id=SK-1&tpid=146>
Chuck Norcutt
James King wrote:
> Chuck,
> What did you use to clean the sensor?
> James
>
>> I have not found dust to be a problem with the 5D. My sensor could
>> stand to be cleaned right now (there's a spot that's been showing up in
>> clouds and blue sky lately) but I've only ever cleaned it two or three
>> times before in 18 months of ownership.
>>
>> Chuck Norcutt
>
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