Chuck Norcutt wrote:
> ..... But, using it in horizontal mount, you can simply
> rotate the camera around the mounting screw in the camera's tripod
> socket. But as the lens tips up and down there is a small error
> introduced in the position of the no-parallax-point.
>
> Assume a 100mm lens and 21 degree horizontal angle of view on a 35mm
> camera. (but vertical in this case since the camera is mounted
> vertically) I'll also assume (just ball park) that the
> no-parallax-point is about equal to the focal length away from the film
> plane. To take a 3 row pano we have to tilt the camera both up and down
> 14 degrees to get a 1/3 field of view overlap between bottom, center and
> top frames. Final vertical coverage is 49 degrees. Anyhow, tilting the
> camera up or down by 14 degrees will mis-position the no-parallax-point
> by about 3mm. Even for relatively close object (like 25 feet) the error
> is on the order of 1 pixel or less. As usual, YMMV and my calculations
> may be all wet... but I think it will work.
>
OK, I know this is a theoretical construct, but still, I have
alternatives to explore.
Why go to all that trouble? Put on a 35 mm lens in vertical orientation.
That gives 54 deg. vertical coverage, and you can take fewer horizontal
shots, too, if you want; no stitching vertically and less stitching
horizontally.
So I can see only two reasons to do it the hard way. "Because it's
there", of something similar, I can't argue with.
The only other reason I can see is that it's for an enormous print that
will be viewed from relatively close. If it's that sort of project, I'll
bet the budget would cover a proper two axis panorama rig.
As it happens, my nine shot waterfall panorama was shot vertically at 35
mm. No calculations, I just set the zoom to give me the vertical
coverage I needed.
The merged panorama is 10,375 x 4,094 pixels. Assuming it would be
viewed from at least a few feet, and using quality upscaling, it should
look great at 72 ppi. That works out to 12 x 4.7 feet.
Just noodling further.
Moose
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