I've been drilling pilot holes and using soap as a thread lubricant on
all wood screws for the past 40 years. It works well and guarantees
that the screw goes in straight and without fuss. No veering off if you
run into a knot or other bit of hard grain. The only difference between
hard wood and soft is that I'm not so worried about the hole being a bit
undersized in soft wood.
If you've never used soap on screw threads try it. It makes an amazing
difference in driving a screw. Scrape the tip of the threads along a
bar of soap or dip the tip into a bit of liquid soap. Screws go in so
easily that there's little chance of stripping the head even in hard
wood. I don't know where I learned it but I've taught this tip to many
people all of whom were very thankful.
Chuck Norcutt
Rand E wrote:
> One thing to keep in mind though: The less wood you remove, the more
> strength you retain. I still don't agree with the prevalent feeling for
> the need to pilot the screw hole. It's soft wood, not metal !
> Rand E.
>
>
> Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>> Surely you jest! There are 20 doors to be done. And one skill I have
>> never acquired is the ability to resharpen a chisel to a razor edge. My
>> hammer and chisel work usually beats the wood into submission rather
>> than cleanly cutting it. Actually, I'm not worried about the strength
>> of the wood holding the screw, only the difficulty of trying to drill a
>> new hole whose center point is sitting on the edge of the existing hole.
>>
>> Chuck Norcutt
>>
>>
>> Wiliam Wagenaar wrote:
>>> If you are worried about the strength of the half overlapping holes and
>>> screws, you can also chisel out other parts of the door and place the
>>> hinges there. With a good chisel it would take bout 5 minutes per hinge
>>> to relocate it about one inch up or down. The only extyra thing you have
>>> to do is paint over the parts of the doors and frames that were formerly
>>> covered with hinges.
>>>
>
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